Built in breaker in spa pack doesn’t reset? Is it worn out?
15 thoughts on “ASP 9000”
Nigel
Hi Glenn. If you push the reset button and it immediately pops out it could be something is tripping it like a heater or pump or ozone unit. If you push the reset and or test buttons and it feels more like the buttons don’t move or it’s a dead switch then it’s possible the switch is bad. Check the wiring going to the switch for any breaks or burn Marks. If you need a new one let me know and we can send you a purchase link as we stock those switches.
I realized after that it is a relay switch issue. There was a loud buzzing coming from the controller board (not pump) and then I heard a bunch of clicking inside and the buzzing stopped but also the heating did as well. If I manually push the relay in the heat indicator light will come on but only as long as I hold the relay. I’m thinking the loud buzzing I was hearing may be the transformer that is connected to the relay? Perhaps it is faulty?
Hi Glenn. Yeah that is the contactor you are pushing in to make the heat light come on. It could be a bad contactor but it also could be a different component in the control box ie hi-limit switch, thermostat, pressure switch, air switch etc. Look at the control box circuitry kinda like a string of Christmas lights. If one light goes out the rest don’t work. You’ll have to trouble shoot which component is bad that is keeping the contactor from pulling in or if it is the contactor itself. A good place to start is to remove your filter and trying running the spa briefly without the filter. If the contactor engages without the filter then you know the filter was dirty and keeping proper flow from getting to the pressure switch. If the filter being removed makes no difference try jumping the pressure switch to see if the contactor engages. If that doesn’t make a difference use your multimeter to check for proper voltage to the other components.
Thanks Nigel.
I just moved into this home and the spa came with it so having no manual on the operation of the ASP 9000 I’m having to learn as I go here with it. I found that someone had re-soldered the terminal onto the pressure switch (black wire on bottom) and it had broken loose. I have re-soldered it and everything seems to be working again and water is heating. But….couple questions: A) There is a loud buzzing or hum which must be coming from the transformer on the back side of the relay, can’t see what else would be causing a hum other than a noisy transformer can you? If so I’m going to replace it. B) Once the water has reached temperature I’ll assume that the pressure switch will turn off the relay and the light indicator will go out? I’m only at 90 degrees as of this moment so I don’t know what to expect. When I removed the pressure switch to solder the terminal (which I’d also like to replace) I noticed the little wheel to change the pressure from zero to 5 PSI. What should this be set at?
Hi Glenn. Yeah the contactors can be noisy. Doesn’t necessarily mean it needs to be replaced but could be on the way out. There are noise suppressors available for them. Sometimes they help sometimes they don’t. Old technology and you don’t see too many Mechanical paks anymore. Most controls are solid state these days and have down away with the pull in contactors. Once the temperature has reached whatever you have set the thermostat for the spa spa should stop heating and the light should go out. Depending what the max temp setting is for the thermostat it could max out at as hi as between 104 and 108. The pressure switch should always sense for flow provided power is going to the control box and the pump is running. The wheels are typically set between 2 and 5psi. Depends on installation and if the control box is in a flooded suction area or not. Most setups are. If your curious you could back off the wheel til the light goes out and then turn the wheel forward again til the light goes on to know your current flow. Let me know if you would like a purchase link for a new pressure switch. They are in stock.
Thanks Nigel, really appreciate your help with this. I would like to purchase a new pressure switch and transformer/relay if you could forward me the link please. Do you happen to have a manual for this that I can purchase or download from somewhere? I also have problems with the air controllers not working in the spa but one thing at a time here. Nothing like inheriting old problems!! Good thing I’m technically minded and don’t mind a challenge.
Hi Nigel.
Okay I have everything working now. I found the air line to the air switch wasn’t connected. The button on the tub itself seems to be faulty however and will have to be replaced. I blew air into the hose and the second stage pump came on perfectly. However as I was overjoyed with this and was letting it run for a bit full speed I observed smoke coming from the black wire (of which there are 2 and this is the one in back) on the relay switch smoking. Is that relay switch supposed to be always engaged or does it only cut out if there is an issue with the pressure / temperature? To reiterate a bit, there are 2 red and 2 black wires coming from the power switch to the relay switch. Seems like there is either too much power to the relay when stage 2 pump on or a faulty black wire connection at the relay end or faulty relay?
Thanks for all your help to this point, almost all corrected now except for this new challenge.
Hi Glenn. Yeah you could have a few different things going on there. Could be that the pump motor has a problem. If you could bench test the pump on hi and low to see how it performs you could rule that out which would leave you with the task of checking the wiring and the contactor itself. If it is a noisy contactor it might be the best and most economical place to start by replacing the contactor and checking that the wires to it are sound. Regretfully I don’t have any links or pdf’s for ASP9000 owner manuals.
Hi Nigel, I sure appreciate all your help in the various threads, I have learned a lot from your wisdom. I recently purchased both a new heating element and a new contactor for the ASP 9000 in my tub. I thank you kindly for the links and for the wonderful and prompt service. I installed both components and now have an unusually new scenario. Firstly, allow me to describe the initial problem that led me to get the new parts. It is an old unit, I had it wired up, it worked well for about a month, although the contactor was buzzing. It still worked and heated great. One morning it stopped completely, it would trip the GFCI every time the contactor engaged. So I bought the parts (element and contactor) from the links you provided, and installed them. While I am an electronics technician, this sort of mechanical setup is vastly different from what I am used to, so I mapped all the wires, drew a diagram, installed the parts, and rewired the new components exactly as the old ones were. I filled the tub, turned on all the breakers and the switch, and it came to life, no problems. Pump (both speeds), light and blower all work well. The issue I have now is that the contactor didn’t seem to want to engage nicely, even when there is flow. The old noisy one did, so I figured I would remove the cap and poke the contactor to force it to connect. It held, and the heater light came on. Great, I thought, it is just new and stubborn, as relays can sometimes be. I checked the pressure sensor, seems to work, and the thermostat works great, I can even hear it click when it sense temperature… So here is where I am at now, I will cut to the chase. The contactor holds and heats when in low pump speed. Once I engage the high speed pump, a few seconds later the contactor disengages and stops heating. I am curious if perhaps I purchased the wrong heater element, which you may be able to confirm. I got the 5.5kW element, which the tub is certainly wired for, but I am wondering if perhaps the contactor is not rated for that element? Maybe I should have gotten the 4kW element instead? Do you think the system is drawing too much current? I would appreciate your input if you have time, I am scratching my head right now.
Hi TJ. It’s possible it could be drawing too much current with both the heater on and the pump on hi. Typically it would trip the breaker if there is an over current load but if it’s on the fence it may be affecting the contactor. If you have a multifunction air switch make sure your wires for hi and low are where they were before on the new contactor.
A quick question Nigel, is the contactor to be installed a certain way, or is it a mirror image of itself. For example, if all connections are made the same as the old contactor, is there an up or down mounting? I ask because the new contactor still does not perform right, and I wonder if perhaps I have it flipped backwards by mistake when I installed it. It does work when i force the buttons in, and they stay, but when I disengage the unit and power it back on, the contactor does not engage without manual assistance. The old noisy unit did, and I have tested the flow sensor, it works well. Furthermore, the thermostat got cooked, and after making 100% certain I wired the new contactor the same as the photo I took of the original noisy one, I am confident it is not in how I wired the contactor, but I could have very well mounted it upside down, if that is even possible. just wondering if there is an up or down way to mount it even though it is identical in appearance no matter which way you look at it.
OK, thanks Nigel, I didn’t think it mattered, just making sure. Looks like a bogus contactor after all, I will have to order another, and a strong thermostat because it is an old unit and it is directly inline with the heater element. Any suggestions on the thermostat? Higher amps rating, like 25 – 30?
15 thoughts on “ASP 9000”
Hi Glenn. If you push the reset button and it immediately pops out it could be something is tripping it like a heater or pump or ozone unit. If you push the reset and or test buttons and it feels more like the buttons don’t move or it’s a dead switch then it’s possible the switch is bad. Check the wiring going to the switch for any breaks or burn Marks. If you need a new one let me know and we can send you a purchase link as we stock those switches.
Hello Nigel,
I realized after that it is a relay switch issue. There was a loud buzzing coming from the controller board (not pump) and then I heard a bunch of clicking inside and the buzzing stopped but also the heating did as well. If I manually push the relay in the heat indicator light will come on but only as long as I hold the relay. I’m thinking the loud buzzing I was hearing may be the transformer that is connected to the relay? Perhaps it is faulty?
Hi Glenn. Yeah that is the contactor you are pushing in to make the heat light come on. It could be a bad contactor but it also could be a different component in the control box ie hi-limit switch, thermostat, pressure switch, air switch etc. Look at the control box circuitry kinda like a string of Christmas lights. If one light goes out the rest don’t work. You’ll have to trouble shoot which component is bad that is keeping the contactor from pulling in or if it is the contactor itself. A good place to start is to remove your filter and trying running the spa briefly without the filter. If the contactor engages without the filter then you know the filter was dirty and keeping proper flow from getting to the pressure switch. If the filter being removed makes no difference try jumping the pressure switch to see if the contactor engages. If that doesn’t make a difference use your multimeter to check for proper voltage to the other components.
Thanks Nigel.
I just moved into this home and the spa came with it so having no manual on the operation of the ASP 9000 I’m having to learn as I go here with it. I found that someone had re-soldered the terminal onto the pressure switch (black wire on bottom) and it had broken loose. I have re-soldered it and everything seems to be working again and water is heating. But….couple questions: A) There is a loud buzzing or hum which must be coming from the transformer on the back side of the relay, can’t see what else would be causing a hum other than a noisy transformer can you? If so I’m going to replace it. B) Once the water has reached temperature I’ll assume that the pressure switch will turn off the relay and the light indicator will go out? I’m only at 90 degrees as of this moment so I don’t know what to expect. When I removed the pressure switch to solder the terminal (which I’d also like to replace) I noticed the little wheel to change the pressure from zero to 5 PSI. What should this be set at?
Hi Glenn. Yeah the contactors can be noisy. Doesn’t necessarily mean it needs to be replaced but could be on the way out. There are noise suppressors available for them. Sometimes they help sometimes they don’t. Old technology and you don’t see too many Mechanical paks anymore. Most controls are solid state these days and have down away with the pull in contactors. Once the temperature has reached whatever you have set the thermostat for the spa spa should stop heating and the light should go out. Depending what the max temp setting is for the thermostat it could max out at as hi as between 104 and 108. The pressure switch should always sense for flow provided power is going to the control box and the pump is running. The wheels are typically set between 2 and 5psi. Depends on installation and if the control box is in a flooded suction area or not. Most setups are. If your curious you could back off the wheel til the light goes out and then turn the wheel forward again til the light goes on to know your current flow. Let me know if you would like a purchase link for a new pressure switch. They are in stock.
Thanks Nigel, really appreciate your help with this. I would like to purchase a new pressure switch and transformer/relay if you could forward me the link please. Do you happen to have a manual for this that I can purchase or download from somewhere? I also have problems with the air controllers not working in the spa but one thing at a time here. Nothing like inheriting old problems!! Good thing I’m technically minded and don’t mind a challenge.
Hi Glenn. Here is a link to a new contactor. This is a link for 230VAC contactor. Check the rating on yours and if you need a 115VAC contactor let me know. I can send you a link for one of those if you need: https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/sundance-parts/electronics/sundance-spas-heater-contactor-part-number-6000-505.html
Here is a link to a pressure switch: https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/spa-parts/electronics/pressure-switch.html
Let me know if and when you may need an air switch. For the ASP 9000 I believe they use a single pole double throw switch. We have those as well.
Hi Nigel.
Okay I have everything working now. I found the air line to the air switch wasn’t connected. The button on the tub itself seems to be faulty however and will have to be replaced. I blew air into the hose and the second stage pump came on perfectly. However as I was overjoyed with this and was letting it run for a bit full speed I observed smoke coming from the black wire (of which there are 2 and this is the one in back) on the relay switch smoking. Is that relay switch supposed to be always engaged or does it only cut out if there is an issue with the pressure / temperature? To reiterate a bit, there are 2 red and 2 black wires coming from the power switch to the relay switch. Seems like there is either too much power to the relay when stage 2 pump on or a faulty black wire connection at the relay end or faulty relay?
Thanks for all your help to this point, almost all corrected now except for this new challenge.
Hi Glenn. Yeah you could have a few different things going on there. Could be that the pump motor has a problem. If you could bench test the pump on hi and low to see how it performs you could rule that out which would leave you with the task of checking the wiring and the contactor itself. If it is a noisy contactor it might be the best and most economical place to start by replacing the contactor and checking that the wires to it are sound. Regretfully I don’t have any links or pdf’s for ASP9000 owner manuals.
Hi Nigel, I sure appreciate all your help in the various threads, I have learned a lot from your wisdom. I recently purchased both a new heating element and a new contactor for the ASP 9000 in my tub. I thank you kindly for the links and for the wonderful and prompt service. I installed both components and now have an unusually new scenario. Firstly, allow me to describe the initial problem that led me to get the new parts. It is an old unit, I had it wired up, it worked well for about a month, although the contactor was buzzing. It still worked and heated great. One morning it stopped completely, it would trip the GFCI every time the contactor engaged. So I bought the parts (element and contactor) from the links you provided, and installed them. While I am an electronics technician, this sort of mechanical setup is vastly different from what I am used to, so I mapped all the wires, drew a diagram, installed the parts, and rewired the new components exactly as the old ones were. I filled the tub, turned on all the breakers and the switch, and it came to life, no problems. Pump (both speeds), light and blower all work well. The issue I have now is that the contactor didn’t seem to want to engage nicely, even when there is flow. The old noisy one did, so I figured I would remove the cap and poke the contactor to force it to connect. It held, and the heater light came on. Great, I thought, it is just new and stubborn, as relays can sometimes be. I checked the pressure sensor, seems to work, and the thermostat works great, I can even hear it click when it sense temperature… So here is where I am at now, I will cut to the chase. The contactor holds and heats when in low pump speed. Once I engage the high speed pump, a few seconds later the contactor disengages and stops heating. I am curious if perhaps I purchased the wrong heater element, which you may be able to confirm. I got the 5.5kW element, which the tub is certainly wired for, but I am wondering if perhaps the contactor is not rated for that element? Maybe I should have gotten the 4kW element instead? Do you think the system is drawing too much current? I would appreciate your input if you have time, I am scratching my head right now.
Hi TJ. It’s possible it could be drawing too much current with both the heater on and the pump on hi. Typically it would trip the breaker if there is an over current load but if it’s on the fence it may be affecting the contactor. If you have a multifunction air switch make sure your wires for hi and low are where they were before on the new contactor.
A quick question Nigel, is the contactor to be installed a certain way, or is it a mirror image of itself. For example, if all connections are made the same as the old contactor, is there an up or down mounting? I ask because the new contactor still does not perform right, and I wonder if perhaps I have it flipped backwards by mistake when I installed it. It does work when i force the buttons in, and they stay, but when I disengage the unit and power it back on, the contactor does not engage without manual assistance. The old noisy unit did, and I have tested the flow sensor, it works well. Furthermore, the thermostat got cooked, and after making 100% certain I wired the new contactor the same as the photo I took of the original noisy one, I am confident it is not in how I wired the contactor, but I could have very well mounted it upside down, if that is even possible. just wondering if there is an up or down way to mount it even though it is identical in appearance no matter which way you look at it.
It does not matter which way TJ.
OK, thanks Nigel, I didn’t think it mattered, just making sure. Looks like a bogus contactor after all, I will have to order another, and a strong thermostat because it is an old unit and it is directly inline with the heater element. Any suggestions on the thermostat? Higher amps rating, like 25 – 30?
Unless it is a TecMark electronic stat something like this should work for you: https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/products/eaton-mears-thermostat-p-n-13-102
They are in stock.