Sundance Spa – FL1 Error Code

 



Sundance Spa – FL1 error code

My Sundance Certa 780 Series hot tub is showing an error of FL1. I went through the manual diagnostics and the error is still there. I contacted Aquatech and they suggested I clean the filter with the FilterBrite. In the first 4 years we basically used one filter and never got this error message. Last year we bought 2 new filters and we switch between them so they are basically hardly used. Both filters have been cleaned in a tub overnight with FilterBrite. We have turned the hot tub off and on numerous times and tried both filters with no luck. Can it be something other than the filter? In the manual it refers to a potential “air lock” – do I push water into filter our hot tub to try to correct (I haven’t dealt with this yet). Our 5 year warranty is up this month. Your assistance/suggestions is greatly appreciated.

Replies

  1. Reply

    Cathy a flashing FL1 msg means the flow or psi switch is not closed when the pump is running. If you are sure your filters are not soiled you will next want to check that your water level is good ie just touching the bottom of your cushions or 3/4 of the way up your weir gate assy by the filter. Next make sure the weir gate is not sticking in the upright position and it is bobbing up and down with the pump on. If you recently drained and refilled your Sundance Spa you could have an air lock. Remove your filter and stick the garden hose in that hole with a rag wrapped around it to force water into that line and hopefully alleviate a potential airlock. Alternatively you could locate the suction line where it is attached to the circulation pump, loosen the gear clamp and the hose and bleed the airlock from there. If this does not correct the flashing FL1 msg you could have a blockage in the circulation line or at the flow or psi switch or you could have a bad connection at the flow or psi switch or a bad flow or psi switch. If all else fails contact our Service Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Spa.

    • Russ

      Reply

      I offer 1 more thing to check, after going through this myself. If you have replace kd the circuit board, double check that the new part number supports a circ pump. Even those that don’t have leads to connect the pump but it won’t run. And you get the error.

      • Nigel

        Reply

        Russ this is partially correct. Specifically you require a PWA with an eprom chip that supports circ pump logic. Many of the PWA’s can be interchanged but the eprom chip is specific to the date built of your spa.

  2. Mary Kay Burgess

    Reply

    We have a Sundance 2003 Caprio (Portofino) hot tub that is throwing an FL1 code. We have bled the lines and all the jets are working. What is the function of the flow switch? Can we bypass the flow switch to see if the switch is bad. Thank you, Gary

  3. Dan B

    Reply

    We have a Sundance Spa Constance (2011) and today also noticed the FL1 error code. In addition to the code, noticed that the pool is registering 72 degrees when it is set to 101. We have never had a problem with the hot tube, until now. We changed the UV bulb last summer and changed out the filters. Any assistance would be helpful.

  4. Reply

    Dan typically when you have an FL1 code it means the spa is not heating and won’t heat until the FL1 code is addressed so you want to check with an external thermometer if your water is 72 degrees. An FL1 code can be caused by several things: Soiled filter, air lock, kinked circulation pump line, blocked circulation pump line, plugged circulation pump, bad circulation pump, plugged Flow switch, poor connection from PWA to Flow switch, bad Flow switch. Start with installing a brand new filter and checking for proper flow from your circulation heating jet. If all else fails contact our Service Support Desk to book a diagnostic of your Sundance Spa.

  5. Lynley Hurst

    Reply

    we recently had our control panel replaced and have had a persistent FL error ever since! we have turned the spa on and off – sometimes this fixes it, we have changed the filter which is clean. Husband will check the pump for an air bubble – have also found our local distributor in NZ does not ring back so is even more frustrating

  6. Reply

    Lynley what is the model of your Sundance Spa and how old is it or what is the year built of the spa? Also is it the topside control panel that was replaced recently?

  7. Lynley Hurst

    Reply

    Can’t remember the model….it is a 4 seat rectangle ….about four years old and yes the top side control panel was what was recently replaced

  8. Reply

    Lynley the family of Sundane Spas has a number of different models with different characteristics, different flow sensors etc. If you can let me know what model you own I may be able to send some troubleshooting tips your way. If the spa is 4yrs old you should be able to find the model name of the spa and the date built of the spa on the label affixed to the top of your main Sentry control box behind your center front skirt panel.

  9. Patty Dechellis

    Reply

    My hot tub ia now displaying ICE What do i do?

  10. Reply

    Patty normally the ICE msg comes up when a freeze condition is detected. No action is usually necessary as this is an automatic feature. Typically this happens after filling the spa with fresh cold water. The pumps usually run during this time until the spa is out of freeze danger.

  11. Patty Dechellis

    Reply

    so should i turn the jets on? if so hi or low?

  12. Patty Dechellis

    Reply

    I NEED A ANSWER?? PLEASE AQUA-TECH SUPPORT

  13. Patty Dechellis

    Reply

    so should i turn the jets on? if so hi or low?

  14. Patty Dechellis

    Reply

    I NEED A ANSWER?? PLEASE AQUA-TECH SUPPORT

  15. Reply

    Patty the ICE msg is designed to protect the spa during a potential freezing event in the form of turning on the pumps so water circulates at a rapid rate in the plumbing. The pumps usually turn off after the freeze event passes. If the ICE msg does not go away please contact your local Spa dealer of the manufacturer of your spa to service your spa.

  16. Patty Dechellis

    Reply

    Aqua-Tech can you call me at 330-581-2138 please now Friday 9:01 pm

  17. Brian Nulf

    Reply

    If one of my jets is not working, how can I figure out if it is blocked or clogged? If it’s clogged how do I clear the blockage?

  18. Brian Nulf

    Reply

    Also if the circulation switch isn’t engaging (lolly pop looking thing just points straight up and doesn’t move) is that because the switch is bad or circulation problem.

  19. Reply

    Brian what make and model spa do you have and what is the date built of the spa?

  20. Joseph Turner

    Reply

    I have a sundance hot tub. Manual says it’s a 780 with a Cayman control panel. I have replaced the circ.pump and the flow switch still not heating. Turn power on you get the software code 365 and then 8888 heater comes on for 3 to 5 sec. And kicks out and starts all over again please help.

  21. Reply

    Joseph if when you apply power to the spa you are saying it keeps initiating the reboot sequence and does not hold 24hr circulation you could need a new PWA and or a new Topside Control Panel.

  22. Joseph Turner

    Reply

    What is the PWA and the control panel where you turn the jets. The pump works and I have good circulation when turned on. But the heater fails to come and stay on.

  23. Reply

    Joseph the PWA is your main circuit board inside the Sentry Control Box. Control panel is where you turn your jets, lights etc on from. If when you apply power to the spa you have 24hr circulation but you just don’t have heat you will want to take your multi meter and check for 240vac at J9 and J10 on the PWA while you have a call for heat. 240vac here with a heat call but no heat would indicate a bad heater. If you have 240vac here attach your current meter to the J9 wire and check for current. No current with a heat call and voltage at j9 and j10 would indicate a bad heater. No 240vac here with a heat call would indicate a bad PWA. Check the connections around J9 and J10 for breaks, cuts, blackening or burn spots.

  24. Jamie Sorenson

    Reply

    Ok, so similar problem here. FL1 message. It has been an off-and-on problem recently, according to the former owners of the house. Have taken the filter out and cleaned it off as best I could. Purged the air out of the line with a towel and garden hose. Still same problem. Where do I go from here? We have a Bahia spa. Not too familiar with the inner workings, but can access the main components at the primary access, where the circuitry is, etc. Anyone point me in the right direction?

  25. Reply

    Jamie try running the spa without a filter for a short period ie 10min. If the FL1 msg does not go away and you have good water movement from your Jet 1 pump on speed 1 you would want to check your connection from the PWA to the psi switch. If the connection is good you would want to check your psi switch for blockage. If there is no blockage at the psi switch you may have a bad psi switch.

    If all else fails contact our Service Support Desk to book a Diagnostic of your Sundance Spa.

  26. Shelley Leggett

    Reply

    We just bought a hot tub used – it’s a Bahia Spa from 2003. The initial code was an FL1 and we realized it didn’t have enough water in it. We turned it off finished filling it up and turned it back on. Now it displays – – – which the manual says it deactivated everything. Do we still follow the original steps for the FL1 and use a hose and try to clear out the vapor lock? The filter isn’t dirty.

  27. Reply

    Shelley the — symbol indicates WATCHDOG. Several things can cause this condition. Other then a runaway heat condition you could have a bad temp and or hi-limit sensor, bad PWA, bad control panel or bad transformer.

    Try turning off your spa and unplugging your sensor harness J2 on your PWA and then re-applying power to the spa. If the control panel lights up with an SN1 or SN2 msg this might mean you have a bad temp sensor and or bad hi-limit sensor. If after re-applying power you still have the — symbol this might mean you have a bad PWA, control panel or transformer.

    If all else fails contact our Service Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Spa.

  28. Shelley Leggett

    Reply

    Thank you. We did this and it threw both codes, the SN1 and SN2. Does this mean we need to replace both of the sensors?

    Thank you so much for all of your help!

  29. Shelley Leggett

    Reply

    BTW… nothing is turning on. It’s only showing power …

  30. Reply

    Check the connections of both sensors where they enter the harness at J2. If the connections are good I would start with the Temperature sensor Shelley. If all else fails contact our Service Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Spa.

  31. Torrance

    Reply

    My sundance cayman hot tub is not heating up the water, I am not getting any fault codes on the control panel. I have replaced the heater and temp sensor already, and just recently changed the water. Do you have any other suggestions?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Torrance, first make sure you have raised the temp setting on your control panel to make a heat call. If you have no error msgs and you have raised your setting for a heat call the red heat indicator light should come on the control panel if you are in Standard mode. If the red light comes on use your multimeter to check for 240vac at test points J9 and J10 on your PWA. If you don’t have 240 here check for 240vac and points J7 and J8. 240vac at J7 and J8 but not J9 and J10 would indicate a possible bad PWA. If you have 240vac at J9 and J10 you could have a bad heater or bad thermal disc. Power down your spa and check for continuity at the thermal disc inside the heater box. If you have continuity at the thermal disc you could have a bad heater. If you don’t have continuity at the thermal disc try replacing the thermal disc and making another heat call. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your spa.

  32. Debbie

    Reply

    Hi,
    I have a sundance Chelsea. It has a”FL1″ error. We have a clean new filter, have tried the towel around the hose trick and still getting the code. We have tried it a few times. So we are now emptying some of the water out. When the error code came on (a couple of days after cleaning and refilling), the water stopped running in the fountain? We are unsure what to do next. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

    • Randy Knight

      Reply

      Did you every get an answer on the FL1 error on your Chelsea hot tub. You may have left this message years ago, I am not sure. But, sounds like you went through the same frustration we are. Our tub has FL1 error, and I realized after reading your message that our waterfall also stopped. Possibly we are having the same issue you did. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have replace the flow switch myself, as well as refilled the tub, changed the filter and did the hose/towel routine. I am ready to take it to the curb!

      • Nigel

        Reply

        Randy check for voltage at your circ pump points on the PWA with a heat call. If you have 240 vac +/- 10% here with a heat call and your circ pump just hums or is overly hot to the touch you may have a bad circ pump. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Spa.

  33. Robert Christian

    Reply

    I am getting constant FL1 msg after emptying tub, replacing heater and refilling the tub. The heater stopped working last spring. I drained the Filter is clean. Water level is good. Ran water into intake with rag wrapped around. I can see the flow switch and water appears to be moving fine. The heater must have come on at some point because the water has warmed up to 70 degrees from around 50 when I filled it. All jets work and have had water run into them. How can I check to see if the flow switch is bad. Is there a way to bypass it to see if message goes away? Thanks

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Robert what make and model spa do you have and what is the date built? All of this info can be found on your id sticker near the Sentry Control Box.

  34. Nathan

    Reply

    Hi,
    We recently purchased a home with a 2004 Sundance spa portifino metro series spa. It has a flashing fl1 code and is not heating. It sounds like the primary pump works fine as the spa will come on every once in a while and the two jet levels work. The filter looks clean, I’ve tried the hose in the fitting trick, but no air lock it seems. The circulation pump doesn’t seem to run ever. Any thoughts or things to check before draining, and ordering new circulation pump, heater and flow switch? Thanks

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Nathan, check for voltage at your circ pump connections on your PWA. On the Metro that should be J14 & J11 but check the back of your Sentry Control Box panel for the diagram or follow the wires from the circ pump to where they hookup to the PWA. With a heat call you should have voltage at these points. 230vac +/- 10% if you are hooked up for hi voltage, 115 if you are hooked up for low. If you have voltage there and the circ pump is not running ie you have no water movement through the circulation jet then you could have a bad circ pump. This would also be the reason for the FL1 msg. You won’t have heat as long the FL1 msg is showing. Contact our parts dept at parts@aqua-tech.ca if you require a replacement circ pump.

  35. Ben unrau

    Reply

    I have a sweet water Bahia hot tub. What would be the issue if it will not turn off. The only way to turn the tub off is to flip the breaker

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Ben if the jet pumps won’t shut off there is usually an associated error msg on the topside control ie OH, ICE etc. Could be that part of the plumbing is frozen or you have a bad temp sensor and or bad PWA. If all else fails contact our Sundance Spas Support desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Spa.

  36. Joe

    Reply

    I have a Sundance spa model Marin with an 850 PWA of year 2008. A month ago I replaced the filter, heater, flow switch, Hi-limit and temperature sensors. It worked fine for a month but now it’s showing a FLO error alternating with the temperature of the water. The circulation pump is not working although the temperature set point is not reached. I checked to see if there is 230 volts at TB4 on the PWA which is where the circulation pump is connected and found no voltage at all. So, I gave a direct supply to the circulation pump which then came on and gave a good flow through the spa’s pipework and the FLO error left and the current water temperature was then showing. I then checked to see if the heater came on which in fact it did. Can you please let me know what could be the problem.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Joe check the back cover of your Sentry control box on your 2008 Marin. Your wiring schematic should show that the black from your circ pump goes to TB2 and the white goes to TB1 on the left
      leg where your incoming red hot attaches. TB4 is your air blower assignment. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your 2008 Sundance Marin Spa.

  37. Joe

    Reply

    Thanks for your help Nigel. My spa cables are colour coded to European regulations where brown is live and blue is neutral. I’m a technician but don’t have much experience on spas. The wiring diagram that you referred to shows the brown from the circulation pump to TB4 and the blue to TB1. The air blower is to TB6 and on TB1 and TB2 there are the jet pumps. I can confirm that the board is in line with the schematic. I’ve had the PWA inspected and all the relays and tracks are good. I still suspect a fault on the PWA but I would like to be sure before I order one because I don’t wont to be left with the same problem. As I said, there is no voltage arriving on TB4.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Joe if you have your spa in Standard mode, you have made a heat call and you have no voltage at your Circ point assignments you may have a bad PWA. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Spa.

  38. Dave

    Reply

    I have Sundance chelsea with fl1 error code. Have tried the garden hose and rag trick, with no luck, have run the tub for shrt period of time, good flow from pump 1. Some trickle from waterfall when pumps are running. There is no voltage present at circ pump contacts on the pwa. Any suggestions on what to do next.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Dave if you have activated a heat call and you have no voltage at the circ pump assignment contacts and you have an FL1 you may have a bad PWA. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Chelsee Spa.

      • Dave

        Reply

        Nigel,

        The temp I set for 90 and the tub temp is 74F, I assume this is a call for heat. I have also run the tub for a few minutes on pump 1 to see if that shakes the flow switch loose, it didn’t clear the error. I see on the schematic there is a onboard fuse, could this be involved?

        Could this be a flow switch issue, if so is there a way to eliminate the switch and verify that the pcb is functional and at the same time determine if the switch is the issue.

        This issue manifested itself when I blew the SC30 main fuse on the input line, it blew 2x and seems to be fine now that I unplugged and replugged everything in systematically when I was trying to isolate the short issue.

        Appreciate the help on this.

        • Nigel

          Reply

          Dave, the onboard fuse would not throw an FL1 msg. Although you can’t rule out a bad Flow switch when you see an FL1 msg you have no power at the circ pump assignment points, power can activate the the circ pump which will open the Flow switch. You could wire your circ pump direct to incoming 230vac at TB1. This will activate your circ pump if it is functional, create flow and open the Flow switch. If it does all that you may have a bad PWA. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Chelsee Spa.

  39. Chiprva

    Reply

    Hello Nigel,
    I have a sweetwater Palermo LX15, DOM 3/11/00, SN PL381278-0300, 240V.
    I have been chasing a FL1 code since Saturday.
    New filter, water level good, bled pump at housing fitting, weir gate inspected. Ran without filter attached.
    Excellent flow on both speeds.
    Tested heater, t-stat, set a call & unit responded. Temp has crept up from 88 to 93, but not from heater, thermal transfer I guess.
    I have tested the pressure switch dead, open & alive, closed, 5.04V / 1.83MA.
    I backed off switch to permanently closed & set FL2, reset switch to original location.
    Sometimes will work correctly on all speeds, sometimes low only, sometimes when going from low to high it will immediately cut out. Sometimes sets code sometimes not. Sometimes control head will allow to cycle through & cuts off led, sometimes not. When not, led on & after a period of time starts up on speed originally set on.
    Sometimes no code displayed. Control head always displays current temp + error code if set. Sometimes cut main pump on, led lights, relay clicks & FL1 sets simultaneously, no pump. Cycle through each with relay click, but will not cut off led.

    Voltages when this happens are
    J15 120
    J17 120
    J16 120
    J17-J16 0

    Low flow voltages
    J15 120
    J17 1
    J16 120

    High flow voltages
    J15 120
    J17 120
    J16 6

    What have I missed? Do you have an opinion?? Ideas?? – thanks, chip

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Chip with the pump on test the psi switch with your multimeter set for ohms. You should have continuity (closed switch). With the pump off test it again and you should have an infinite reading (open switch). If you don’t have these readings you could have a bad psi switch. Also check that there is no blockage in the impellor assy of your stage 1, 2-speed pump. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sweetwater Palermo Spa.

  40. Tim

    Reply

    I have a sundance Hamilton 780. I am getting the FL1 error message. All my jets are working but the heat and waterfall are not…i have checked the filters, air lock, etc with no resolution…do you think it is a bad circulation pump?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Tim, check the circ point assignments on the PWA with your multimeter. You should have 240vac +/- 10% here with a heat call. If you do then you may have a plugged and or bad circ pump. If you don’t have 240 here you may have a bad PWA. If you require replacement parts for your Sundance Hamilton spa visit our online store at http://www.aqua-tech.ca. Click on parts and accessories and then the big yellow button prices and availability.

  41. Corey

    Reply

    I am also getting the fl1 code. Everything is working on the spa. Except for the heater. Any suggestions. I think my spa is a sweetwater Sundance spa. Maybe 03,04,05 ish.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Corey, try and run your spa without the filter briefly. Also make sure you have enough water in the spa for the circ pump to stay primed. If the FL1 code goes away clean or replace your filter. If it doesn’t go away you may have blockage in your circ line and or a bad Pressure switch. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic of your Sundance Spa.

  42. Linda Smith

    Reply

    I have a 2006 camden series sundance spa. When the company opened Iit for the summer they blew the circuit board. We have replaced the flow switch, circuit board, and circuits but I can’t lower the temperature. It stays at 100 degrees even though I have it set at 85. Any ideas?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Linda if the heat icon is staying off and you can’t get the temperature to drop to 85 try setting the control panel to Economy mode and setting your circ pump for a 6hr duration or less if you are in a hot weather climate area. You could also open one side of your heatshield, turn on the blower and add some cool water to the spa to bring the temperature down.

  43. Randy Knight

    Reply

    When you attempt to flush an air lock out of the tub, does it matter which hole is used within the filter bay? One hole has a plastic mesh – the other is a more of a “hole”. Can the wrapped garden hose go either way?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Randy you want to use the hole opposite of the mesh side.

  44. robert correia

    Reply

    hi i have a sweetwater laguna 03 i think i get fl1 code everything works except heater ,tried bridging pressure switch wires , it works ok for 5 mins then stops then shows 3 dashes ,i replaced pressure switch with a new one still not working thanks for your help rob

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Robert if you are still getting an FL1 msg after replacing the psi switch you would want to check the wiring from the switch to the PWA and also check that your circ pump is not locked up.
      If you are just getting the WATCHDOG symbol (three dashes) then you may have a bad temp sensor, hi limit sensor, transformer and or PWA. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your 2003 Sundance Laguna Spa.

  45. Justin L.

    Reply

    Hi there,
    We have a 2004 Hermosa Sundance Spa and it has an FL1 code on the screen. We drained and re filled the tub to a water level over the jets. We used a garden hose and a towel in the filter box to un block any airways and we replaced the pressure switch. Still we have no circulation or heat. Please let me know what we can do next. We’ve searched for local spa techs and have had no such luck.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Justin if the circulation pump is not turning, panel heat indicator light is not lit and the panel is flashing FL1 first check with your multimeter for correct voltage to the spa at test points TB1 18 and 19. You should have 240vac +/- 10% with a 240vac setup. If you don’t consult a licensed electrician. If you do have correct voltage set the temperature hi enough to initiate a heat call. Then check voltage from the PWA to the circulation pump. If you don’t have correct voltage at the PWA then you could have a bad PWA. If you have proper voltage from the PWA to the circulation pump check the wire from the PWA to the circulation pump. If the wire is bad go ahead and replace the wire. If the wire is good you may have a bad circulation pump.

      • Justin L.

        Reply

        Thanks for the quick reply. In the manual I don’t see “test points 18 &19” on TB1. I hear something kicking on every few minutes. It sounds like a low hum. No water is circulating and the “heating tube” is cold however, the electric motor attached to the pump with the two main feed lines is very hot. The FL1 code isn’t flashing it goes back and fourth between the temperature and FL1 on the display. It currently reads 87 degrees. Yesterday when we filled it, it said 105. That seems accurate according to our external thermometer. I truly believe it’s an airlock but I can’t seem to aleviate the issue. Also, I’m not familiar with the abbreviation PWA and the “circulation pump” is not labeled anywhere. So I can only guess what I’m looking at is in fact accurate.

        • Nigel

          Reply

          Justin correct me if I am wrong but you only have one pump on that model. If the pump motor is very hot and only hums it is either locked up with blockage inside the impellor assy or the electrical motor itself is locked up. You could try to rotate the shaft by popping off the small access cover at the rear of the motor. A slot head screw driver will fit on the rear of the shaft and then try to turn the screw driver to spin the shaft. You could also drain the spa, disconnect the unions and stick your finger inside the pump housing to try and turn the impellor. This way is also a good opportunity to check for blockage in the impellor assy. If you pull the whole pump motor assy out you could bench test the pump. Check the voltage rating on the motor before applying voltage to the motor. If the motor itself is locked up and you cant budge it you may have to replace it or the pump complete. If the motor shaft is free wheeling you could try to replace your start capacitor. This is located underneath the big hump on top of the pump motor. If you require a new pump/motor feel free to visit our online store at http://www.aqua-tech.ca. Click on Parts and Accessories. Then click on the big yellow button Prices and availability. You could also leave a picture of your pump here for id purposes. Good luck!

  46. Justin L.

    Reply

    Thanks so much, I’ll give it my best shot to diagnose it before I buy a new pump. Thanks for being so helpful.

  47. Tonja Ellison

    Reply

    I have a sundance Bahia spa year 2005. I was not getting any power to the panel so I changed the fuse and it started to work. now I am getting a F1 error code i change the water and changed the filter which did not work. I took off the filter and flushed it with the hose to clear the lines for air pockets still getting the error message. can any one help?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Tonja, check with your multimeter that you have proper voltage at the circ pump setpoints on the PWA with a heat call. You should have 240VAC +/- 10%. If you have proper voltage there with a heat call and you have no water movement you could have a plugged circ pump and or bad circ pump. Check to see if you can hear any noise at all from the circ pump with a heat call. Also put your hand on the circ pump to see if it is overly hot to the touch. Check that the power feed cable from the circ pump to the PWA does not have any breaks/cuts in it and it is making a good connection. The circ pump is located behind the Sentry Control Box in the equipment bay on the 2005 Bahia. If you don’t have proper voltage at the circ pump setpoints with a heat call you could have a bad PWA. Visit our online store if you require a replacement circ pump or PWA. http://www.aqua-tech.ca
      Click on Parts and Accesories and then click on the big Yellow button Prices and Availability.

  48. Roy Kuehn

    Reply

    I have a 2011 Sundance Hawthorne (3 pumps). I was in the tub and few minutes after the the pumps timed out I heard a pop which was the Gfi breaker tripping. After pulling the control box cover I saw black mark on the inside of the box behind J9 and J10. It seems something in the PWA failed and tripped the GFI when the heater tried to come on. Do I need a new PWA or is their another problem?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Roy j9 & 10 are for the heater.
      You may have a bad heater. If you have burnt marks on the PWA you may also have to replace the PWA.

  49. Carrie

    Reply

    Hello! I have a 2001 Sundance Bahia, which I recently replaced the temp sensor in. Before the temp sensor exchange, both pumps worked fine. Now, my two speed pump will not run on low and it throws the FL1 code. I’ve replaced the capacitor in the pump and put a new pressure sensor in it. I adjusted the pressure sensor until I heard a click, which will activate the heater, turn off the FL1 code, but pump still doesn’t turn on the low setting. If I run the pumps beyond the click point in the pressure sensor, I’ll get the FL2 code.
    Could this be the relay or is my pump bad?
    Thank you!

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Carrie if an audible click can be heard when you depress the jet 1 button to activate low speed in the 2 speed pump check your voltage at the hi speed connector for the 2 speed pump on the PWA. With one probe from your multimeter on the hi speed connector and the other probe on the neutral you should have 240vac +/- 10%. If you have 240. but no low speed you could have a bad pump motor or a bad low speed wire from the PWA to the pump motor. If you hear a click or you don’t hear a click and you don’t have 240 you could have a bad PWA. Alternatively you could switch your red and black wires from your 2 speed pump around on the PWA to see if the low speed works on the hi speed spade connector coming off the PWA. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Bahia Spa.

      • Carrie

        Reply

        Actually, I read about switching the red and black wires on the board last week, so I did and when I activated the two speed pump, it blew the fuse. Does this say anything?

        • Nigel

          Reply

          Carrie you could have a bad wire from the PWA to the pump or you could have a bad pump motor.
          If you have access to a 240v bench plug you could remove the pump from the spa and bench test it or take it to a motor rebuild shop to bench test it.

  50. Helen Cruz

    Reply

    We have a Bahia 2006 sundance spa it was throwing an SN1 message after we drained and refilled the tub. My husband adjusted some wires and the tub was working great. The tub began heating up we went to bed and then this morning nothing. No power at all!! Checked all the fuses and nothing. Have any ideas?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Helen take your multimeter and check your voltage at the TB1 terminal block. Tell me what voltage you have there please.

  51. Jesse

    Reply

    03 Bahia won’t circulate and neither of the two jet pumps will activate.light switch does not work either. FL1 error however the flo switch is bypassed.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Jesse perhaps start by putting your flow switch back online or if you know it is a bad flow switch then replace it. Once that is complete with a heat call check with your multimeter for 240vac +/- 10% at the circ pump point on the PWA. If you have 240vac there and the circ pump is not circulating then you could have a bad circ pump and or wiring from the PWA to the circ pump. If you don’t have 240vac there then you could have a bad PWA. If you hear a relay click on the PWA when you press the jets button check for 240vac at the jet pump points on the PWA. If you have 240vac here and the pump won’t run then you could have a bad jet pump and or wiring from the PWA to the jet pump. If you don’t have 240vac there or don’t hear a relay click you could have a bad PWA. If you would like a link to prices and availability on Flow switches, circ pumps and jet pumps send us the serial number of your Sundance Bahia Spa.

  52. ERIC

    Reply

    I have a Jacuzzi J 220 and getting a FL1 code. I have replaced the flow switch and checked it with my multimeter and still showing open. Pump will not come on and it is not getting a heat call either. I check for power at the pump and nothing. Checking around the board, I have power in, but no power out. All fuses are good and tried jumping the flow switch to make it think that it is closed. When I do that the FL1 goes away and the heat call light comes on, but no power being sent to the pump. Any ideas?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Eric make sure the spa is in standard mode and the circ pump is set to run 24hrs and that there is a heat call but the actual spa temperature is below temperature setpoint. Check for proper voltage with your multimeter at the connections where the neutral and line wires from the circ pump touch the PWA. If you have the rated voltage for the circ pump here but the circ pump is not running you could have a bad connection from the PWA to the circ pump, and or a bad or plugged circ pump. If you don’t have the rated voltage for the circ pump here you could have a bad PWA.

  53. ERIC

    Reply

    I take it the PWA is the circuit board?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Correct

  54. Dave

    Reply

    I have a Sundance Caprio and I am getting an FL1 error code. I replaced the filters and the flow sensor with no luck. I noticed that the circulation pump is not running. I tested power to the pump at the panel and it does have power. The pump is cold to the touch. Is it likely faulty and the cause of the FL1 error code?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Dave. It sounds like you may have a bad circ pump on your hands. Would you like me to send you a purchase link for your Sundance Caprio?

  55. jeremey hilliker

    Reply

    i have a sweetwater hot tub that is showing a fl1 code, i have changed the filter, replaced the pressure switch and replaced the heater element. Any other ideas…

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Jeremey what is the serial number of your Sweetwater hot tub? You can find this on the id label on or near the Sentry control box and sometimes depending how old the spa is on the reverse of the skirt panel.

      • jeremey hilliker

        Reply

        serial number is 210823 002, thank you

        • Nigel

          Reply

          Jeremey that is not a Sundance/Sweetwater spa serial number. Is this a Sweetwater spa by another manufacturer?

          • jeremey hilliker

            It says it right on the cover panel Sweetwater Spas and the model is a LX-10

          • Nigel

            Jeremey with the Sweetwater LX10 models there is another id sticker. If it is not right on the top of the control box it would be on the back of the skirt panel that you take off to expose the control box. The id sticker will have the model of Sweetwater spa, Serial number and date built of the spa. Usually the serial number starts with two letters and then 6 digits ie for a Palermo spa it would be something like PL617903 or for a Bahia spa it would be BH234091 etc. I may be able to help you troubleshoot more in depth with this info. That being said: First turn the power to the spa off. Remove the filter, turn the power back on and wait for the circulation pump to start. Run the spa for 5-10 min without a filter to see if the FL1 message goes away. If the message stays shut the power off to the spa and check your pressure switch with your multimeter set to the ohms setting. With the spa off you should have an infinite reading on your meter. Turn the power back on again and wait for the circulation pump to start. Check the switch again with your multimeter. With the pump running you should have a reading of continuity. If you don’t have these readings you could have a bad, plugged or intermittent pressure switch. Also check that the wiring/connectors to the switch are good. If the pressure switch checks out okay you could have a look inside the housing of the circulation pump and or circulation line for any blockage. You’d be surprised what can get sucked into the plumbing and cause an FL1 message. If the circulation pump is shutting down and you are seeing the FL1 message, either it is thermal overloading or it could be that it is just a faulty pump (thermal overload). This will cause an FL1, that is the key to pump direction.

            Next time it happens, check for voltage when in FL1.. If you have proper voltage at your circ pump test points, than pump is issue. Make sure if you try this, keep door on to let it happen. If you keep door off, then it will breathe and will take longer to thermal overload. Also, if you quickly place your hand on motor, you might feel that it is extremely hot or if warm, but again bad pump.

            I may be able to help you troubleshoot more in depth with the electronics ie the PWA etc if all else checks out here but I would need the serial number to determine your model.

  56. Jeanie

    Reply

    I have a 2001 Sundance Bahia and whenever I turn the jets on it blows the pipe between the heater and the pump completely off Do you know what could be wrong? We have replaced this pipe three times now and it’s like it’s there is so much pressure when you turn the pumps on that if blows the PVC pipe apart , blows a breaker , and water pours out from underneath the front panel? Thanks, Jeanie

  57. Vic Martinez

    Reply

    I moved the hot tub and leveled it out, filled it up and started giving me the FL1 reading. I changed out the switch and kept doing it. I also put water to see if there were any bubbles which it worked for a little while. Now it keeps giving me the reading and my little water fall is not proving any water. I still have to put water in the jets to get it to work. Any advice will help?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Vic if the spa was working ok before you moved it with no topside control error message then I would suggest you may have an air lock. If there is no water movement especially at the waterfall or the small circulation jet in the bottom footwell this is an indication of possible air lock. The most aggressive way to aleviate an air lock is to loosen the union or hose at the circulation pump until you hear the air released. Sometimes you will lose a significant amount of water at the pump as you do this procedure but once you see water movement at the waterfall you can tighten the union or hose again. Make sure your waterfall valve is turned all the way on.
      There are some other tests you can do with a multimeter to check for proper flow switch and circulation pump operation that I could instruct you on. It would be good if you could give me the serial number of your Sundance Spa so I can understand which equipment you have. Also if you could indicate to me the reason you replaced the flow switch. These two items may help us correct the FL1 message on your spa. The serial number can be found on the id label usually located on top of the Sentry Control Box.

  58. Mark C Bollow

    Reply

    Hopefully this is still active…… But FL1 that I have is on a 2003 Sundance bahia. It was working great one day…. And then no heat. Heater is 5 months old…. Flow valve is too. I think I need to change filter. But If it’s an airlock issue, and I remove filter and do the garden hose flush…. Should tub be full or empty…. And on or off?
    Thanks

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Mark the spa should be full and on.

  59. Gill Loughnan

    Reply

    Hi I have a certa 650 manufactured 26 March 2014.. it has been working fine but now has a persistent Fl1 error. I found the filter was loose… would that cause an error? I have contacted my local guy who has recommended I removed the small white end of my filter so I can operate it. Unfortunately this has not stopped the error.. I was just wondering, is it ok to run the pumps with the error showing? I have topped up the level and also pushed some water through the inlet to clear any potential air lock…. at a loss of what to do next. Can you help? Thanks Gill

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Gill a loose filter is unlikely to cause this but if some debris got past the loose filter it could have caused blockage in your circ line and or circ pump. If you have no water movement through the waterfall and your small circulation jet in the footwell of the spa you would want to see if the circ pump is overly hot by putting your hand on the circ pump. If it is hot to the touch you would want to check for proper voltage at your circ point test points on the PWA. If you have proper voltage you could have a plugged and or bad circ pump. If you don’t have proper voltage and the pump is cold to the touch you could have a bad PWA. It is safe to run the jet pumps with an FL1 message but in some models the jets pumps won’t activate during FL1. You will have no heat during FL1 and no filtration during FL1 so I wouldn’t advise using the spa during FL1.

  60. Mark C Bollow

    Reply

    Ok….. I asked about a FL-1 error back on March 21…and you replied extremely fast! I did everything to resolve the issue. Ended up replacing the filter. Or so I thought.
    Now my problem is, new filter installed, it now trips the breaker immediately. I take filter out, and it fires right up!
    Please help!
    Thank you in advance!

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Mark. Sounds like a coincidence that the breaker would trip upon install of the filter. The filter in itself would not trip the breaker but if it for some reason was creating a blockage of flow to the circ pump and the circ pump had a voltage overload the circ pump could trip the breaker. I would start with leaving a clean filter in and disconnecting your appliances one by one to see if the breaker stays set or trips. Start by disconnecting your ozone unit if you have one first. Move to the circ pump, heater and jet pumps next til you rule out each one. You may find the GFCI breaker in fact to be the culprit if all the other appliances check out ok. Also check for excessive moisture around the equipment area and the GFCI breaker. This can cause nuissance tripping.

  61. Kevin

    Reply

    Hello,
    I have a 2005 Bahia and have had FL1 issues off and on for a while. Latest development is that there is no heat and I hear a click coming from the circulation pump when I turn the power source back on. I put in a new flow switch about a month ago because I thought that could be the reason for the fl1 code blinking. The Laing pump makes no noise and is cool to the touch. I am hoping it is just a bad pump that needs to be replaced, as opposed to changing the computer board. Also, when the daily automatic pump cycle comes on, the pumps only run for about 5 minutes, however if I turn them on manually, they run for the normal duration…Thanks in advance

  62. Ryan

    Reply

    Hello,
    I have a 2004 Portofino Caprio and getting an FL1 error code. Here is everything I’ve done. Pulled the filter and turned spa back on and tried blowing out an air lock by putting the hose in the filter box. I ordered a replacement flo switch but decided to have it serviced for $103 instead. Service tech tested the circ pump first and validated that it was still good. He then jiggled some wires on top of the flow switch and the error code went away! Awesome! Two days later, FL1 is back so i tried “jiggling some wires” again with no luck. So i figure it has to be the flow switch. I replace the flow switch and the old one i pulled out had a ton of buildup on it. So I’m thinking, oh it’s defintely it because the switch would not close. I fired the spa back up and still have the FL1 error code. Please help!! Thanks

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Ryan. Check the stake connectors that are going to the flow switch. Also check the wire going back to the circuit board. Check that you have the Flow switch threaded down far enough into the plumbing T and that the switch is pointed in the direction of the flow arrow. If this all checks out you could have blockage in the circ line and or heater. If you have ozone and a Mazzei injector or ozone mixing chamber check this for blockage also. If you were to take the hose off the flow switch on the end that return water to the spa and attach a small hose to the flow switch here and drop it over the spa you could check to see if the problem lies after the flow switch or before it. If the FL1 error goes away with the hose over the spa you know it is after the flow switch that you have back pressure or blockage.

  63. Tony

    Reply

    I have 1997 Sundance Rio, and had a GFCI fault which turned out to be the heater. It also had a slight leak at the impeller, so I decided to put a new impeller + seals, and a new heater in.
    Everything seems to work, but as it’s heating up, it gets in the low 90s and the control panel starts freaking out. I have to flip off the breaker to kill power because the panel is non responsive. When I power it back up, it works for a while and then starts flipping out again.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Tony. When you say the topside stops working do you mean it locks up but you can still read everything but every button doesn’t work including the light, blower, heat up/down buttons, pump buttons?

  64. Mike Murphy

    Reply

    Have a CAPRIO, 2009. FL1 on, for the first time. Tried filling, hose in exit, new filter. Heater and pump seem to be working.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Mike. With an FL1 error code the heater would not be heating the water. Is the red heat indicator light on?

  65. beth

    Reply

    I have a 2011 peyton sundance spa it stays at 103 degrees no matter what the led display is at please help tooo hot

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Beth. If you are in a warm or tropical climate you may be experiencing heat transference from the pumps or equipment to the spa water. Consider switching your main filter cycle to F4. This is Economy mode. If you have a small circulation pump on the spa consider switching the circ pump cycle to C0. And of course make sure your topside control is set below whatever temperature you’d like the spa to be set at ie if you want it to be at 95 set it for 93 or 94. In the meantime to cool the water down open one side of the cover, partially drain some water from the spa ie 10-12 litres and add some cool water.

  66. Jim Carley

    Reply

    I have a 2004 Sundance Metro hot tub. The circ pump died and was replaced 4 times within the 5 year warrantee period and 3 times since. It just died again – 110v off the PWA, but no hum or vibration from the pump. The cost of these pumps had gone up from ~ $60 to ~$140. I plan to order another pump, but want to know what I might be able to do to keep them from burning out. I am also curious if this is just a design flaw in the Metro, IE: an under powered pump or too much friction loss in the tubing.

    I have tried both 110v and 220v circ pumps. The dead ones do not seem to have water inside. I did have 2 that died slowly, giving me nasty bearing failing noises. I have moved to the dual compartment pleated filter that gives less resistance to the circ pump flow (vs. the original “micro clean” small pore filter that clogged up within a month). I alternate between 2 of those filters and keep them clean. I have an abandoned ozinator that I replaced once. It did leave some sticky goo dripping out of its lower air intake hole. I purge the lines with a hose whenever I change water or swap out a pump.

    So my main questions are:

    Is there a well-known problem with the Sundance Metro circ pump design?

    Should I replace the circ pump with a more powerful pump in an attempt to keep it from burning out?

    Is there a dependable way to test if the exit line tubing from the circ pump (or the suction side) is restricted? Note: they both seem to flood out water pretty well when I remove the pump (until I get a cork stuck into them).

    Other likely problems I should look into?

    Thanks in advance for any info you may have to offer.

    Jim

  67. Jim

    Reply

    Hello. I have a del sol spa that I am told is Made by Sundance? It was working fine and I drained it to clean it, refilled and it all worked fine again. A week later I drained it to move it to replace some deck boards. I moved it back and refilled and I get the fl1 code. It has a single pump and it comes on when power is restored and rotates the right direction but ther is no flow out of the jets. I can put the speed on high, the pump ramps up but still no flow out the jets. I did notice a small (maybe 1/4”) tubing that looks like it tees into a jet, but the other end was disconnected. Not sure if I knocked it loose or what. I removed the filter, plugged the suction hole and had a water hose going into the suction through the drain hose. Still no flow.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Jim. It sounds like you could have an airlock if the pump turns on but you have no water movement out of the jets. Make sure your water level is 4 to 6 inches above the filter and open up the union to the front of the pump to alleviate any air locks. You will lose some water during this process. Do it with the pump running. Not the union that directly leaves the pump to go to the heater.

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