Sundance Spa – FL1 error code
My Sundance Certa 780 Series hot tub is showing an error of FL1. I went through the manual diagnostics and the error is still there. I contacted Aquatech and they suggested I clean the filter with the FilterBrite. In the first 4 years we basically used one filter and never got this error message. Last year we bought 2 new filters and we switch between them so they are basically hardly used. Both filters have been cleaned in a tub overnight with FilterBrite. We have turned the hot tub off and on numerous times and tried both filters with no luck. Can it be something other than the filter? In the manual it refers to a potential “air lock” – do I push water into filter our hot tub to try to correct (I haven’t dealt with this yet). Our 5 year warranty is up this month. Your assistance/suggestions is greatly appreciated.
237 thoughts on “Sundance Spa – FL1 Error Code”
Cathy a flashing FL1 msg means the flow or psi switch is not closed when the pump is running. If you are sure your filters are not soiled you will next want to check that your water level is good ie just touching the bottom of your cushions or 3/4 of the way up your weir gate assy by the filter. Next make sure the weir gate is not sticking in the upright position and it is bobbing up and down with the pump on. If you recently drained and refilled your Sundance Spa you could have an air lock. Remove your filter and stick the garden hose in that hole with a rag wrapped around it to force water into that line and hopefully alleviate a potential airlock. Alternatively you could locate the suction line where it is attached to the circulation pump, loosen the gear clamp and the hose and bleed the airlock from there. If this does not correct the flashing FL1 msg you could have a blockage in the circulation line or at the flow or psi switch or you could have a bad connection at the flow or psi switch or a bad flow or psi switch. If all else fails contact our Service Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Spa.
I offer 1 more thing to check, after going through this myself. If you have replace kd the circuit board, double check that the new part number supports a circ pump. Even those that don’t have leads to connect the pump but it won’t run. And you get the error.
Russ this is partially correct. Specifically you require a PWA with an eprom chip that supports circ pump logic. Many of the PWA’s can be interchanged but the eprom chip is specific to the date built of your spa.
We have a Sundance 2003 Caprio (Portofino) hot tub that is throwing an FL1 code. We have bled the lines and all the jets are working. What is the function of the flow switch? Can we bypass the flow switch to see if the switch is bad. Thank you, Gary
We have a Sundance Spa Constance (2011) and today also noticed the FL1 error code. In addition to the code, noticed that the pool is registering 72 degrees when it is set to 101. We have never had a problem with the hot tube, until now. We changed the UV bulb last summer and changed out the filters. Any assistance would be helpful.
Dan typically when you have an FL1 code it means the spa is not heating and won’t heat until the FL1 code is addressed so you want to check with an external thermometer if your water is 72 degrees. An FL1 code can be caused by several things: Soiled filter, air lock, kinked circulation pump line, blocked circulation pump line, plugged circulation pump, bad circulation pump, plugged Flow switch, poor connection from PWA to Flow switch, bad Flow switch. Start with installing a brand new filter and checking for proper flow from your circulation heating jet. If all else fails contact our Service Support Desk to book a diagnostic of your Sundance Spa.
we recently had our control panel replaced and have had a persistent FL error ever since! we have turned the spa on and off – sometimes this fixes it, we have changed the filter which is clean. Husband will check the pump for an air bubble – have also found our local distributor in NZ does not ring back so is even more frustrating
Lynley what is the model of your Sundance Spa and how old is it or what is the year built of the spa? Also is it the topside control panel that was replaced recently?
Can’t remember the model….it is a 4 seat rectangle ….about four years old and yes the top side control panel was what was recently replaced
Lynley the family of Sundane Spas has a number of different models with different characteristics, different flow sensors etc. If you can let me know what model you own I may be able to send some troubleshooting tips your way. If the spa is 4yrs old you should be able to find the model name of the spa and the date built of the spa on the label affixed to the top of your main Sentry control box behind your center front skirt panel.
My hot tub ia now displaying ICE What do i do?
Patty normally the ICE msg comes up when a freeze condition is detected. No action is usually necessary as this is an automatic feature. Typically this happens after filling the spa with fresh cold water. The pumps usually run during this time until the spa is out of freeze danger.
so should i turn the jets on? if so hi or low?
I NEED A ANSWER?? PLEASE AQUA-TECH SUPPORT
so should i turn the jets on? if so hi or low?
I NEED A ANSWER?? PLEASE AQUA-TECH SUPPORT
Patty the ICE msg is designed to protect the spa during a potential freezing event in the form of turning on the pumps so water circulates at a rapid rate in the plumbing. The pumps usually turn off after the freeze event passes. If the ICE msg does not go away please contact your local Spa dealer of the manufacturer of your spa to service your spa.
Aqua-Tech can you call me at 330-581-2138 please now Friday 9:01 pm
If one of my jets is not working, how can I figure out if it is blocked or clogged? If it’s clogged how do I clear the blockage?
Also if the circulation switch isn’t engaging (lolly pop looking thing just points straight up and doesn’t move) is that because the switch is bad or circulation problem.
Brian what make and model spa do you have and what is the date built of the spa?
I have a sundance hot tub. Manual says it’s a 780 with a Cayman control panel. I have replaced the circ.pump and the flow switch still not heating. Turn power on you get the software code 365 and then 8888 heater comes on for 3 to 5 sec. And kicks out and starts all over again please help.
Joseph if when you apply power to the spa you are saying it keeps initiating the reboot sequence and does not hold 24hr circulation you could need a new PWA and or a new Topside Control Panel.
What is the PWA and the control panel where you turn the jets. The pump works and I have good circulation when turned on. But the heater fails to come and stay on.
Joseph the PWA is your main circuit board inside the Sentry Control Box. Control panel is where you turn your jets, lights etc on from. If when you apply power to the spa you have 24hr circulation but you just don’t have heat you will want to take your multi meter and check for 240vac at J9 and J10 on the PWA while you have a call for heat. 240vac here with a heat call but no heat would indicate a bad heater. If you have 240vac here attach your current meter to the J9 wire and check for current. No current with a heat call and voltage at j9 and j10 would indicate a bad heater. No 240vac here with a heat call would indicate a bad PWA. Check the connections around J9 and J10 for breaks, cuts, blackening or burn spots.
Ok, so similar problem here. FL1 message. It has been an off-and-on problem recently, according to the former owners of the house. Have taken the filter out and cleaned it off as best I could. Purged the air out of the line with a towel and garden hose. Still same problem. Where do I go from here? We have a Bahia spa. Not too familiar with the inner workings, but can access the main components at the primary access, where the circuitry is, etc. Anyone point me in the right direction?
Jamie try running the spa without a filter for a short period ie 10min. If the FL1 msg does not go away and you have good water movement from your Jet 1 pump on speed 1 you would want to check your connection from the PWA to the psi switch. If the connection is good you would want to check your psi switch for blockage. If there is no blockage at the psi switch you may have a bad psi switch.
If all else fails contact our Service Support Desk to book a Diagnostic of your Sundance Spa.
We just bought a hot tub used – it’s a Bahia Spa from 2003. The initial code was an FL1 and we realized it didn’t have enough water in it. We turned it off finished filling it up and turned it back on. Now it displays – – – which the manual says it deactivated everything. Do we still follow the original steps for the FL1 and use a hose and try to clear out the vapor lock? The filter isn’t dirty.
Shelley the — symbol indicates WATCHDOG. Several things can cause this condition. Other then a runaway heat condition you could have a bad temp and or hi-limit sensor, bad PWA, bad control panel or bad transformer.
Try turning off your spa and unplugging your sensor harness J2 on your PWA and then re-applying power to the spa. If the control panel lights up with an SN1 or SN2 msg this might mean you have a bad temp sensor and or bad hi-limit sensor. If after re-applying power you still have the — symbol this might mean you have a bad PWA, control panel or transformer.
If all else fails contact our Service Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Spa.
Thank you. We did this and it threw both codes, the SN1 and SN2. Does this mean we need to replace both of the sensors?
Thank you so much for all of your help!
BTW… nothing is turning on. It’s only showing power …
Check the connections of both sensors where they enter the harness at J2. If the connections are good I would start with the Temperature sensor Shelley. If all else fails contact our Service Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Spa.
My sundance cayman hot tub is not heating up the water, I am not getting any fault codes on the control panel. I have replaced the heater and temp sensor already, and just recently changed the water. Do you have any other suggestions?
Torrance, first make sure you have raised the temp setting on your control panel to make a heat call. If you have no error msgs and you have raised your setting for a heat call the red heat indicator light should come on the control panel if you are in Standard mode. If the red light comes on use your multimeter to check for 240vac at test points J9 and J10 on your PWA. If you don’t have 240 here check for 240vac and points J7 and J8. 240vac at J7 and J8 but not J9 and J10 would indicate a possible bad PWA. If you have 240vac at J9 and J10 you could have a bad heater or bad thermal disc. Power down your spa and check for continuity at the thermal disc inside the heater box. If you have continuity at the thermal disc you could have a bad heater. If you don’t have continuity at the thermal disc try replacing the thermal disc and making another heat call. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your spa.
Hi,
I have a sundance Chelsea. It has a”FL1″ error. We have a clean new filter, have tried the towel around the hose trick and still getting the code. We have tried it a few times. So we are now emptying some of the water out. When the error code came on (a couple of days after cleaning and refilling), the water stopped running in the fountain? We are unsure what to do next. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Did you every get an answer on the FL1 error on your Chelsea hot tub. You may have left this message years ago, I am not sure. But, sounds like you went through the same frustration we are. Our tub has FL1 error, and I realized after reading your message that our waterfall also stopped. Possibly we are having the same issue you did. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have replace the flow switch myself, as well as refilled the tub, changed the filter and did the hose/towel routine. I am ready to take it to the curb!
Randy check for voltage at your circ pump points on the PWA with a heat call. If you have 240 vac +/- 10% here with a heat call and your circ pump just hums or is overly hot to the touch you may have a bad circ pump. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Spa.
I am getting constant FL1 msg after emptying tub, replacing heater and refilling the tub. The heater stopped working last spring. I drained the Filter is clean. Water level is good. Ran water into intake with rag wrapped around. I can see the flow switch and water appears to be moving fine. The heater must have come on at some point because the water has warmed up to 70 degrees from around 50 when I filled it. All jets work and have had water run into them. How can I check to see if the flow switch is bad. Is there a way to bypass it to see if message goes away? Thanks
Robert what make and model spa do you have and what is the date built? All of this info can be found on your id sticker near the Sentry Control Box.
Hi,
We recently purchased a home with a 2004 Sundance spa portifino metro series spa. It has a flashing fl1 code and is not heating. It sounds like the primary pump works fine as the spa will come on every once in a while and the two jet levels work. The filter looks clean, I’ve tried the hose in the fitting trick, but no air lock it seems. The circulation pump doesn’t seem to run ever. Any thoughts or things to check before draining, and ordering new circulation pump, heater and flow switch? Thanks
Nathan, check for voltage at your circ pump connections on your PWA. On the Metro that should be J14 & J11 but check the back of your Sentry Control Box panel for the diagram or follow the wires from the circ pump to where they hookup to the PWA. With a heat call you should have voltage at these points. 230vac +/- 10% if you are hooked up for hi voltage, 115 if you are hooked up for low. If you have voltage there and the circ pump is not running ie you have no water movement through the circulation jet then you could have a bad circ pump. This would also be the reason for the FL1 msg. You won’t have heat as long the FL1 msg is showing. Contact our parts dept at parts@aqua-tech.ca if you require a replacement circ pump.
I have a sweet water Bahia hot tub. What would be the issue if it will not turn off. The only way to turn the tub off is to flip the breaker
Ben if the jet pumps won’t shut off there is usually an associated error msg on the topside control ie OH, ICE etc. Could be that part of the plumbing is frozen or you have a bad temp sensor and or bad PWA. If all else fails contact our Sundance Spas Support desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Spa.
I have a Sundance spa model Marin with an 850 PWA of year 2008. A month ago I replaced the filter, heater, flow switch, Hi-limit and temperature sensors. It worked fine for a month but now it’s showing a FLO error alternating with the temperature of the water. The circulation pump is not working although the temperature set point is not reached. I checked to see if there is 230 volts at TB4 on the PWA which is where the circulation pump is connected and found no voltage at all. So, I gave a direct supply to the circulation pump which then came on and gave a good flow through the spa’s pipework and the FLO error left and the current water temperature was then showing. I then checked to see if the heater came on which in fact it did. Can you please let me know what could be the problem.
Joe check the back cover of your Sentry control box on your 2008 Marin. Your wiring schematic should show that the black from your circ pump goes to TB2 and the white goes to TB1 on the left
leg where your incoming red hot attaches. TB4 is your air blower assignment. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your 2008 Sundance Marin Spa.
Thanks for your help Nigel. My spa cables are colour coded to European regulations where brown is live and blue is neutral. I’m a technician but don’t have much experience on spas. The wiring diagram that you referred to shows the brown from the circulation pump to TB4 and the blue to TB1. The air blower is to TB6 and on TB1 and TB2 there are the jet pumps. I can confirm that the board is in line with the schematic. I’ve had the PWA inspected and all the relays and tracks are good. I still suspect a fault on the PWA but I would like to be sure before I order one because I don’t wont to be left with the same problem. As I said, there is no voltage arriving on TB4.
Joe if you have your spa in Standard mode, you have made a heat call and you have no voltage at your Circ point assignments you may have a bad PWA. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Spa.
I have Sundance chelsea with fl1 error code. Have tried the garden hose and rag trick, with no luck, have run the tub for shrt period of time, good flow from pump 1. Some trickle from waterfall when pumps are running. There is no voltage present at circ pump contacts on the pwa. Any suggestions on what to do next.
Dave if you have activated a heat call and you have no voltage at the circ pump assignment contacts and you have an FL1 you may have a bad PWA. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Chelsee Spa.
Nigel,
The temp I set for 90 and the tub temp is 74F, I assume this is a call for heat. I have also run the tub for a few minutes on pump 1 to see if that shakes the flow switch loose, it didn’t clear the error. I see on the schematic there is a onboard fuse, could this be involved?
Could this be a flow switch issue, if so is there a way to eliminate the switch and verify that the pcb is functional and at the same time determine if the switch is the issue.
This issue manifested itself when I blew the SC30 main fuse on the input line, it blew 2x and seems to be fine now that I unplugged and replugged everything in systematically when I was trying to isolate the short issue.
Appreciate the help on this.
Dave, the onboard fuse would not throw an FL1 msg. Although you can’t rule out a bad Flow switch when you see an FL1 msg you have no power at the circ pump assignment points, power can activate the the circ pump which will open the Flow switch. You could wire your circ pump direct to incoming 230vac at TB1. This will activate your circ pump if it is functional, create flow and open the Flow switch. If it does all that you may have a bad PWA. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Chelsee Spa.
Hello Nigel,
I have a sweetwater Palermo LX15, DOM 3/11/00, SN PL381278-0300, 240V.
I have been chasing a FL1 code since Saturday.
New filter, water level good, bled pump at housing fitting, weir gate inspected. Ran without filter attached.
Excellent flow on both speeds.
Tested heater, t-stat, set a call & unit responded. Temp has crept up from 88 to 93, but not from heater, thermal transfer I guess.
I have tested the pressure switch dead, open & alive, closed, 5.04V / 1.83MA.
I backed off switch to permanently closed & set FL2, reset switch to original location.
Sometimes will work correctly on all speeds, sometimes low only, sometimes when going from low to high it will immediately cut out. Sometimes sets code sometimes not. Sometimes control head will allow to cycle through & cuts off led, sometimes not. When not, led on & after a period of time starts up on speed originally set on.
Sometimes no code displayed. Control head always displays current temp + error code if set. Sometimes cut main pump on, led lights, relay clicks & FL1 sets simultaneously, no pump. Cycle through each with relay click, but will not cut off led.
Voltages when this happens are
J15 120
J17 120
J16 120
J17-J16 0
Low flow voltages
J15 120
J17 1
J16 120
High flow voltages
J15 120
J17 120
J16 6
What have I missed? Do you have an opinion?? Ideas?? – thanks, chip
Chip with the pump on test the psi switch with your multimeter set for ohms. You should have continuity (closed switch). With the pump off test it again and you should have an infinite reading (open switch). If you don’t have these readings you could have a bad psi switch. Also check that there is no blockage in the impellor assy of your stage 1, 2-speed pump. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sweetwater Palermo Spa.
I have a sundance Hamilton 780. I am getting the FL1 error message. All my jets are working but the heat and waterfall are not…i have checked the filters, air lock, etc with no resolution…do you think it is a bad circulation pump?
Tim, check the circ point assignments on the PWA with your multimeter. You should have 240vac +/- 10% here with a heat call. If you do then you may have a plugged and or bad circ pump. If you don’t have 240 here you may have a bad PWA. If you require replacement parts for your Sundance Hamilton spa visit our online store at http://www.aqua-tech.ca. Click on parts and accessories and then the big yellow button prices and availability.
I am also getting the fl1 code. Everything is working on the spa. Except for the heater. Any suggestions. I think my spa is a sweetwater Sundance spa. Maybe 03,04,05 ish.
Corey, try and run your spa without the filter briefly. Also make sure you have enough water in the spa for the circ pump to stay primed. If the FL1 code goes away clean or replace your filter. If it doesn’t go away you may have blockage in your circ line and or a bad Pressure switch. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic of your Sundance Spa.
I have a 2006 camden series sundance spa. When the company opened Iit for the summer they blew the circuit board. We have replaced the flow switch, circuit board, and circuits but I can’t lower the temperature. It stays at 100 degrees even though I have it set at 85. Any ideas?
Linda if the heat icon is staying off and you can’t get the temperature to drop to 85 try setting the control panel to Economy mode and setting your circ pump for a 6hr duration or less if you are in a hot weather climate area. You could also open one side of your heatshield, turn on the blower and add some cool water to the spa to bring the temperature down.
When you attempt to flush an air lock out of the tub, does it matter which hole is used within the filter bay? One hole has a plastic mesh – the other is a more of a “hole”. Can the wrapped garden hose go either way?
Randy you want to use the hole opposite of the mesh side.
hi i have a sweetwater laguna 03 i think i get fl1 code everything works except heater ,tried bridging pressure switch wires , it works ok for 5 mins then stops then shows 3 dashes ,i replaced pressure switch with a new one still not working thanks for your help rob
Robert if you are still getting an FL1 msg after replacing the psi switch you would want to check the wiring from the switch to the PWA and also check that your circ pump is not locked up.
If you are just getting the WATCHDOG symbol (three dashes) then you may have a bad temp sensor, hi limit sensor, transformer and or PWA. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your 2003 Sundance Laguna Spa.
Hi there,
We have a 2004 Hermosa Sundance Spa and it has an FL1 code on the screen. We drained and re filled the tub to a water level over the jets. We used a garden hose and a towel in the filter box to un block any airways and we replaced the pressure switch. Still we have no circulation or heat. Please let me know what we can do next. We’ve searched for local spa techs and have had no such luck.
Justin if the circulation pump is not turning, panel heat indicator light is not lit and the panel is flashing FL1 first check with your multimeter for correct voltage to the spa at test points TB1 18 and 19. You should have 240vac +/- 10% with a 240vac setup. If you don’t consult a licensed electrician. If you do have correct voltage set the temperature hi enough to initiate a heat call. Then check voltage from the PWA to the circulation pump. If you don’t have correct voltage at the PWA then you could have a bad PWA. If you have proper voltage from the PWA to the circulation pump check the wire from the PWA to the circulation pump. If the wire is bad go ahead and replace the wire. If the wire is good you may have a bad circulation pump.
Thanks for the quick reply. In the manual I don’t see “test points 18 &19” on TB1. I hear something kicking on every few minutes. It sounds like a low hum. No water is circulating and the “heating tube” is cold however, the electric motor attached to the pump with the two main feed lines is very hot. The FL1 code isn’t flashing it goes back and fourth between the temperature and FL1 on the display. It currently reads 87 degrees. Yesterday when we filled it, it said 105. That seems accurate according to our external thermometer. I truly believe it’s an airlock but I can’t seem to aleviate the issue. Also, I’m not familiar with the abbreviation PWA and the “circulation pump” is not labeled anywhere. So I can only guess what I’m looking at is in fact accurate.
Justin correct me if I am wrong but you only have one pump on that model. If the pump motor is very hot and only hums it is either locked up with blockage inside the impellor assy or the electrical motor itself is locked up. You could try to rotate the shaft by popping off the small access cover at the rear of the motor. A slot head screw driver will fit on the rear of the shaft and then try to turn the screw driver to spin the shaft. You could also drain the spa, disconnect the unions and stick your finger inside the pump housing to try and turn the impellor. This way is also a good opportunity to check for blockage in the impellor assy. If you pull the whole pump motor assy out you could bench test the pump. Check the voltage rating on the motor before applying voltage to the motor. If the motor itself is locked up and you cant budge it you may have to replace it or the pump complete. If the motor shaft is free wheeling you could try to replace your start capacitor. This is located underneath the big hump on top of the pump motor. If you require a new pump/motor feel free to visit our online store at http://www.aqua-tech.ca. Click on Parts and Accessories. Then click on the big yellow button Prices and availability. You could also leave a picture of your pump here for id purposes. Good luck!
Thanks so much, I’ll give it my best shot to diagnose it before I buy a new pump. Thanks for being so helpful.
I have a sundance Bahia spa year 2005. I was not getting any power to the panel so I changed the fuse and it started to work. now I am getting a F1 error code i change the water and changed the filter which did not work. I took off the filter and flushed it with the hose to clear the lines for air pockets still getting the error message. can any one help?
Tonja, check with your multimeter that you have proper voltage at the circ pump setpoints on the PWA with a heat call. You should have 240VAC +/- 10%. If you have proper voltage there with a heat call and you have no water movement you could have a plugged circ pump and or bad circ pump. Check to see if you can hear any noise at all from the circ pump with a heat call. Also put your hand on the circ pump to see if it is overly hot to the touch. Check that the power feed cable from the circ pump to the PWA does not have any breaks/cuts in it and it is making a good connection. The circ pump is located behind the Sentry Control Box in the equipment bay on the 2005 Bahia. If you don’t have proper voltage at the circ pump setpoints with a heat call you could have a bad PWA. Visit our online store if you require a replacement circ pump or PWA. http://www.aqua-tech.ca
Click on Parts and Accesories and then click on the big Yellow button Prices and Availability.
I have a 2011 Sundance Hawthorne (3 pumps). I was in the tub and few minutes after the the pumps timed out I heard a pop which was the Gfi breaker tripping. After pulling the control box cover I saw black mark on the inside of the box behind J9 and J10. It seems something in the PWA failed and tripped the GFI when the heater tried to come on. Do I need a new PWA or is their another problem?
Roy j9 & 10 are for the heater.
You may have a bad heater. If you have burnt marks on the PWA you may also have to replace the PWA.
Hello! I have a 2001 Sundance Bahia, which I recently replaced the temp sensor in. Before the temp sensor exchange, both pumps worked fine. Now, my two speed pump will not run on low and it throws the FL1 code. I’ve replaced the capacitor in the pump and put a new pressure sensor in it. I adjusted the pressure sensor until I heard a click, which will activate the heater, turn off the FL1 code, but pump still doesn’t turn on the low setting. If I run the pumps beyond the click point in the pressure sensor, I’ll get the FL2 code.
Could this be the relay or is my pump bad?
Thank you!
Carrie if an audible click can be heard when you depress the jet 1 button to activate low speed in the 2 speed pump check your voltage at the hi speed connector for the 2 speed pump on the PWA. With one probe from your multimeter on the hi speed connector and the other probe on the neutral you should have 240vac +/- 10%. If you have 240. but no low speed you could have a bad pump motor or a bad low speed wire from the PWA to the pump motor. If you hear a click or you don’t hear a click and you don’t have 240 you could have a bad PWA. Alternatively you could switch your red and black wires from your 2 speed pump around on the PWA to see if the low speed works on the hi speed spade connector coming off the PWA. If all else fails contact your local Sundance Spas Support Desk to book a diagnostic and repair of your Sundance Bahia Spa.
Actually, I read about switching the red and black wires on the board last week, so I did and when I activated the two speed pump, it blew the fuse. Does this say anything?
Carrie you could have a bad wire from the PWA to the pump or you could have a bad pump motor.
If you have access to a 240v bench plug you could remove the pump from the spa and bench test it or take it to a motor rebuild shop to bench test it.
We have a Bahia 2006 sundance spa it was throwing an SN1 message after we drained and refilled the tub. My husband adjusted some wires and the tub was working great. The tub began heating up we went to bed and then this morning nothing. No power at all!! Checked all the fuses and nothing. Have any ideas?
Helen take your multimeter and check your voltage at the TB1 terminal block. Tell me what voltage you have there please.
03 Bahia won’t circulate and neither of the two jet pumps will activate.light switch does not work either. FL1 error however the flo switch is bypassed.
Jesse perhaps start by putting your flow switch back online or if you know it is a bad flow switch then replace it. Once that is complete with a heat call check with your multimeter for 240vac +/- 10% at the circ pump point on the PWA. If you have 240vac there and the circ pump is not circulating then you could have a bad circ pump and or wiring from the PWA to the circ pump. If you don’t have 240vac there then you could have a bad PWA. If you hear a relay click on the PWA when you press the jets button check for 240vac at the jet pump points on the PWA. If you have 240vac here and the pump won’t run then you could have a bad jet pump and or wiring from the PWA to the jet pump. If you don’t have 240vac there or don’t hear a relay click you could have a bad PWA. If you would like a link to prices and availability on Flow switches, circ pumps and jet pumps send us the serial number of your Sundance Bahia Spa.
I have a Jacuzzi J 220 and getting a FL1 code. I have replaced the flow switch and checked it with my multimeter and still showing open. Pump will not come on and it is not getting a heat call either. I check for power at the pump and nothing. Checking around the board, I have power in, but no power out. All fuses are good and tried jumping the flow switch to make it think that it is closed. When I do that the FL1 goes away and the heat call light comes on, but no power being sent to the pump. Any ideas?
Eric make sure the spa is in standard mode and the circ pump is set to run 24hrs and that there is a heat call but the actual spa temperature is below temperature setpoint. Check for proper voltage with your multimeter at the connections where the neutral and line wires from the circ pump touch the PWA. If you have the rated voltage for the circ pump here but the circ pump is not running you could have a bad connection from the PWA to the circ pump, and or a bad or plugged circ pump. If you don’t have the rated voltage for the circ pump here you could have a bad PWA.
I take it the PWA is the circuit board?
Correct
I have a Sundance Caprio and I am getting an FL1 error code. I replaced the filters and the flow sensor with no luck. I noticed that the circulation pump is not running. I tested power to the pump at the panel and it does have power. The pump is cold to the touch. Is it likely faulty and the cause of the FL1 error code?
Hi Dave. It sounds like you may have a bad circ pump on your hands. Would you like me to send you a purchase link for your Sundance Caprio?
i have a sweetwater hot tub that is showing a fl1 code, i have changed the filter, replaced the pressure switch and replaced the heater element. Any other ideas…
Jeremey what is the serial number of your Sweetwater hot tub? You can find this on the id label on or near the Sentry control box and sometimes depending how old the spa is on the reverse of the skirt panel.
serial number is 210823 002, thank you
Jeremey that is not a Sundance/Sweetwater spa serial number. Is this a Sweetwater spa by another manufacturer?
It says it right on the cover panel Sweetwater Spas and the model is a LX-10
Jeremey with the Sweetwater LX10 models there is another id sticker. If it is not right on the top of the control box it would be on the back of the skirt panel that you take off to expose the control box. The id sticker will have the model of Sweetwater spa, Serial number and date built of the spa. Usually the serial number starts with two letters and then 6 digits ie for a Palermo spa it would be something like PL617903 or for a Bahia spa it would be BH234091 etc. I may be able to help you troubleshoot more in depth with this info. That being said: First turn the power to the spa off. Remove the filter, turn the power back on and wait for the circulation pump to start. Run the spa for 5-10 min without a filter to see if the FL1 message goes away. If the message stays shut the power off to the spa and check your pressure switch with your multimeter set to the ohms setting. With the spa off you should have an infinite reading on your meter. Turn the power back on again and wait for the circulation pump to start. Check the switch again with your multimeter. With the pump running you should have a reading of continuity. If you don’t have these readings you could have a bad, plugged or intermittent pressure switch. Also check that the wiring/connectors to the switch are good. If the pressure switch checks out okay you could have a look inside the housing of the circulation pump and or circulation line for any blockage. You’d be surprised what can get sucked into the plumbing and cause an FL1 message. If the circulation pump is shutting down and you are seeing the FL1 message, either it is thermal overloading or it could be that it is just a faulty pump (thermal overload). This will cause an FL1, that is the key to pump direction.
Next time it happens, check for voltage when in FL1.. If you have proper voltage at your circ pump test points, than pump is issue. Make sure if you try this, keep door on to let it happen. If you keep door off, then it will breathe and will take longer to thermal overload. Also, if you quickly place your hand on motor, you might feel that it is extremely hot or if warm, but again bad pump.
I may be able to help you troubleshoot more in depth with the electronics ie the PWA etc if all else checks out here but I would need the serial number to determine your model.
I have a 2001 Sundance Bahia and whenever I turn the jets on it blows the pipe between the heater and the pump completely off Do you know what could be wrong? We have replaced this pipe three times now and it’s like it’s there is so much pressure when you turn the pumps on that if blows the PVC pipe apart , blows a breaker , and water pours out from underneath the front panel? Thanks, Jeanie
Jeanie there is quite alot of pressure produced by the jet pump. That being said I would check first that all the jets are turned on at the jet faces and that you do have some flow coming through the jets before the pipe blows off. If you don’t have any flow coming through the jets you could have some blockage in the plumbing line.
If the pipe is blowing off at the heater check the union nut at the heater. It may be stripped and not holding anymore under pressure. If the pipe is blowing off at the pump check the union nut at the pump. It may be stripped and not holding anymore under pressure. There are repair nuts for both the heater and the pump. I will attach purchase links for your convenience. If there is no blockage and the pipes still blow off after replacing the nuts you may have to replace/replumb that section of plumbing between the pump and the heater as the sleeve portion of the unions may be stripped and not holding anymore under pressure.
https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/sundance-parts/heaters/sundance-jacuzzi-spas-heater-split-nut-part-number-6000-176.html
https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/sundance-parts/pumps/sundance-jacuzzi-spas-pump-union-split-nut-part-number-6000-031.html
I moved the hot tub and leveled it out, filled it up and started giving me the FL1 reading. I changed out the switch and kept doing it. I also put water to see if there were any bubbles which it worked for a little while. Now it keeps giving me the reading and my little water fall is not proving any water. I still have to put water in the jets to get it to work. Any advice will help?
Vic if the spa was working ok before you moved it with no topside control error message then I would suggest you may have an air lock. If there is no water movement especially at the waterfall or the small circulation jet in the bottom footwell this is an indication of possible air lock. The most aggressive way to aleviate an air lock is to loosen the union or hose at the circulation pump until you hear the air released. Sometimes you will lose a significant amount of water at the pump as you do this procedure but once you see water movement at the waterfall you can tighten the union or hose again. Make sure your waterfall valve is turned all the way on.
There are some other tests you can do with a multimeter to check for proper flow switch and circulation pump operation that I could instruct you on. It would be good if you could give me the serial number of your Sundance Spa so I can understand which equipment you have. Also if you could indicate to me the reason you replaced the flow switch. These two items may help us correct the FL1 message on your spa. The serial number can be found on the id label usually located on top of the Sentry Control Box.
Hopefully this is still active…… But FL1 that I have is on a 2003 Sundance bahia. It was working great one day…. And then no heat. Heater is 5 months old…. Flow valve is too. I think I need to change filter. But If it’s an airlock issue, and I remove filter and do the garden hose flush…. Should tub be full or empty…. And on or off?
Thanks
Mark the spa should be full and on.
Hi I have a certa 650 manufactured 26 March 2014.. it has been working fine but now has a persistent Fl1 error. I found the filter was loose… would that cause an error? I have contacted my local guy who has recommended I removed the small white end of my filter so I can operate it. Unfortunately this has not stopped the error.. I was just wondering, is it ok to run the pumps with the error showing? I have topped up the level and also pushed some water through the inlet to clear any potential air lock…. at a loss of what to do next. Can you help? Thanks Gill
Gill a loose filter is unlikely to cause this but if some debris got past the loose filter it could have caused blockage in your circ line and or circ pump. If you have no water movement through the waterfall and your small circulation jet in the footwell of the spa you would want to see if the circ pump is overly hot by putting your hand on the circ pump. If it is hot to the touch you would want to check for proper voltage at your circ point test points on the PWA. If you have proper voltage you could have a plugged and or bad circ pump. If you don’t have proper voltage and the pump is cold to the touch you could have a bad PWA. It is safe to run the jet pumps with an FL1 message but in some models the jets pumps won’t activate during FL1. You will have no heat during FL1 and no filtration during FL1 so I wouldn’t advise using the spa during FL1.
Ok….. I asked about a FL-1 error back on March 21…and you replied extremely fast! I did everything to resolve the issue. Ended up replacing the filter. Or so I thought.
Now my problem is, new filter installed, it now trips the breaker immediately. I take filter out, and it fires right up!
Please help!
Thank you in advance!
Hi Mark. Sounds like a coincidence that the breaker would trip upon install of the filter. The filter in itself would not trip the breaker but if it for some reason was creating a blockage of flow to the circ pump and the circ pump had a voltage overload the circ pump could trip the breaker. I would start with leaving a clean filter in and disconnecting your appliances one by one to see if the breaker stays set or trips. Start by disconnecting your ozone unit if you have one first. Move to the circ pump, heater and jet pumps next til you rule out each one. You may find the GFCI breaker in fact to be the culprit if all the other appliances check out ok. Also check for excessive moisture around the equipment area and the GFCI breaker. This can cause nuissance tripping.
Hello,
I have a 2005 Bahia and have had FL1 issues off and on for a while. Latest development is that there is no heat and I hear a click coming from the circulation pump when I turn the power source back on. I put in a new flow switch about a month ago because I thought that could be the reason for the fl1 code blinking. The Laing pump makes no noise and is cool to the touch. I am hoping it is just a bad pump that needs to be replaced, as opposed to changing the computer board. Also, when the daily automatic pump cycle comes on, the pumps only run for about 5 minutes, however if I turn them on manually, they run for the normal duration…Thanks in advance
Hi Kevin. Check for voltage at the circ pump set points on the board when you make a call for heat. If you have the proper voltage there then you could have a bad circ pump. If you don’t have the correct voltage there you could have a bad board.
Here is a purchase link to a circ pump: https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/sundance-parts/pumps/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-laing-series-circulation-pump-part-number-6000-125e.html
If you send me your serial number I can send you a purchase link for a new board.
Hello,
I have a 2004 Portofino Caprio and getting an FL1 error code. Here is everything I’ve done. Pulled the filter and turned spa back on and tried blowing out an air lock by putting the hose in the filter box. I ordered a replacement flo switch but decided to have it serviced for $103 instead. Service tech tested the circ pump first and validated that it was still good. He then jiggled some wires on top of the flow switch and the error code went away! Awesome! Two days later, FL1 is back so i tried “jiggling some wires” again with no luck. So i figure it has to be the flow switch. I replace the flow switch and the old one i pulled out had a ton of buildup on it. So I’m thinking, oh it’s defintely it because the switch would not close. I fired the spa back up and still have the FL1 error code. Please help!! Thanks
Hi Ryan. Check the stake connectors that are going to the flow switch. Also check the wire going back to the circuit board. Check that you have the Flow switch threaded down far enough into the plumbing T and that the switch is pointed in the direction of the flow arrow. If this all checks out you could have blockage in the circ line and or heater. If you have ozone and a Mazzei injector or ozone mixing chamber check this for blockage also. If you were to take the hose off the flow switch on the end that return water to the spa and attach a small hose to the flow switch here and drop it over the spa you could check to see if the problem lies after the flow switch or before it. If the FL1 error goes away with the hose over the spa you know it is after the flow switch that you have back pressure or blockage.
I have 1997 Sundance Rio, and had a GFCI fault which turned out to be the heater. It also had a slight leak at the impeller, so I decided to put a new impeller + seals, and a new heater in.
Everything seems to work, but as it’s heating up, it gets in the low 90s and the control panel starts freaking out. I have to flip off the breaker to kill power because the panel is non responsive. When I power it back up, it works for a while and then starts flipping out again.
Hi Tony. When you say the topside stops working do you mean it locks up but you can still read everything but every button doesn’t work including the light, blower, heat up/down buttons, pump buttons?
Have a CAPRIO, 2009. FL1 on, for the first time. Tried filling, hose in exit, new filter. Heater and pump seem to be working.
Hi Mike. With an FL1 error code the heater would not be heating the water. Is the red heat indicator light on?
I have a 2011 peyton sundance spa it stays at 103 degrees no matter what the led display is at please help tooo hot
Hi Beth. If you are in a warm or tropical climate you may be experiencing heat transference from the pumps or equipment to the spa water. Consider switching your main filter cycle to F4. This is Economy mode. If you have a small circulation pump on the spa consider switching the circ pump cycle to C0. And of course make sure your topside control is set below whatever temperature you’d like the spa to be set at ie if you want it to be at 95 set it for 93 or 94. In the meantime to cool the water down open one side of the cover, partially drain some water from the spa ie 10-12 litres and add some cool water.
I have a 2004 Sundance Metro hot tub. The circ pump died and was replaced 4 times within the 5 year warrantee period and 3 times since. It just died again – 110v off the PWA, but no hum or vibration from the pump. The cost of these pumps had gone up from ~ $60 to ~$140. I plan to order another pump, but want to know what I might be able to do to keep them from burning out. I am also curious if this is just a design flaw in the Metro, IE: an under powered pump or too much friction loss in the tubing.
I have tried both 110v and 220v circ pumps. The dead ones do not seem to have water inside. I did have 2 that died slowly, giving me nasty bearing failing noises. I have moved to the dual compartment pleated filter that gives less resistance to the circ pump flow (vs. the original “micro clean” small pore filter that clogged up within a month). I alternate between 2 of those filters and keep them clean. I have an abandoned ozinator that I replaced once. It did leave some sticky goo dripping out of its lower air intake hole. I purge the lines with a hose whenever I change water or swap out a pump.
So my main questions are:
Is there a well-known problem with the Sundance Metro circ pump design?
Should I replace the circ pump with a more powerful pump in an attempt to keep it from burning out?
Is there a dependable way to test if the exit line tubing from the circ pump (or the suction side) is restricted? Note: they both seem to flood out water pretty well when I remove the pump (until I get a cork stuck into them).
Other likely problems I should look into?
Thanks in advance for any info you may have to offer.
Jim
Hi Jim. No design flaws in the Metro and no known problems. You should be using the 2 stage Micro clean cartridge with this model. Also you should be using the Laing 120v circ pump. If the hoses flood out your lines should be good. You could check your heater to see if there is any calcium deposit in the tubing and causing excessive back pressure. I’ve attached purchase links to both the filters and the genuine Sundance circ pump. All parts are in stock and would ship to your door: https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-laing-series-circulation-pump-part-number-6500-460.html
https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/hot-tub-filters/sundance-spa-filters/sundance-microclean-i-throwaway-absorbtion-filter-part-number-6540-502.html
https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/hot-tub-filters/sundance-spa-filters/75-sq-ft-micro-clean-pleated-filter.html
Hello. I have a del sol spa that I am told is Made by Sundance? It was working fine and I drained it to clean it, refilled and it all worked fine again. A week later I drained it to move it to replace some deck boards. I moved it back and refilled and I get the fl1 code. It has a single pump and it comes on when power is restored and rotates the right direction but ther is no flow out of the jets. I can put the speed on high, the pump ramps up but still no flow out the jets. I did notice a small (maybe 1/4”) tubing that looks like it tees into a jet, but the other end was disconnected. Not sure if I knocked it loose or what. I removed the filter, plugged the suction hole and had a water hose going into the suction through the drain hose. Still no flow.
Hi Jim. It sounds like you could have an airlock if the pump turns on but you have no water movement out of the jets. Make sure your water level is 4 to 6 inches above the filter and open up the union to the front of the pump to alleviate any air locks. You will lose some water during this process. Do it with the pump running. Not the union that directly leaves the pump to go to the heater.
Additional info:
Pump 1 (the circulation pump) is making a humming sound for 10-20 seconds every ~15 minutes, but no water is flowing. The pump housing is about 55C. So obviously this is some kind of pump problem. Is there anything I can do to try and fix this other than replacing the pump?
Hi Matthew. What is the serial number of your Sundance Hawthorne Spa? You can find this on your serial number id label on top of the Sentry Control Box.
OHW3LED-100423683-0412
I have another post that contains further details, it’s still awaiting moderation.
Matthew, with Pump 1 on and the waterfall valve open do you see any water movement from through the waterfall?
I had my hot tub off (at the breaker) and turned it back on to test the waterfall as you requested.
Upon restart, the buzzing noise was there, but no water flow anywhere, and the panel read FL1. When I pressed Pump 1, the jets turned on, water came out of the waterfall, and the FL1 error cleared. I hope that means something specific to you.
Hi Matthew. The FL1 message means the pressure switch is not closing. The jet 1 pump directs flow through the pressure switch. If the jet 1 pump is not operating or creating water movement when you press the jet 1 button the FL1 message will display. You could remove the wires from the pressure switch and test across the switch with your multimeter set to the ohms position. With water flow through the jet 1 pump ie water movement through the waterfall you should have a reading of continuity across the switch.
If the pump is buzzing on initial startup you could have a bad start capacitor or a bad pump motor. Let me know if you would like a purchase link for a new pressure switch and or a new jet 1 pump. If all else fails contact our Sundance Service Support Desk to schedule a diagnostic and repair of your 2012 Sundance Hawthorne Spa.
Could you give me all three links. Then I’ll be able to order whatever I need after I test the switch.
-pump 1
-start capacitor
-pressure switch
Thank you.
Hi Matthew. If you require service of the spa please contact our Service Support Desk to book a diagnostic. I’ve attached purchase links to a jet 1 pump and a pressure switch. These parts can be purchased directly from the links. They are both in stock and would ship direct to your door. Purchase tonite and they would ship Monday:
https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/collections/hot-tub-parts-sundance-spas-pumps/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-series-jet-pump-pn-6500-352
https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/collections/hot-tub-parts-sundance-spas-flow-switches/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-pressure-switch-pn-6560-869
On the Hawthorne 680, how long should the circulation cycle last? If the spa is already at the right temperature?
Hi Matthew. What filter cycle is your 680 Series Hawthorne set for?
I have the FL 1 code issue. 2005 Lagunas Sundance spa. I have cleaned the filter, checked the water level, used a hose with a rag to push the air out. The FL m1 code remains. The jets DO WORK on both speeds with the code showing. There is good water flow. I took the wires off the flow valve and “jumped” it by connecting the 2 wires and the FL 1 code disappears and the heat indicator comes on (heat does not work while the code is on). I figured it was the flow valve gone bad so I replaced it but the code is still there? Any help is appreciated.
Hi William. Key will be to know if you have flow through the footwell small circulation grate cover. Check that first and chat me back.
Additional info:” When I said this…In fact, with the filter removed and the code still showing I can feel the suction pulling water into the filter hole. I meant with either the first or second level jets on I can feel the suction. No water movement without at least one jet level on.
Hi William. Either blockage on the circ pump side, bad connection from the circ pump to the board, bad circ pump and or bad board.
Hi Nigel, would there still be water flow if the circ pump was bad OR blocked? Seems like if either were the case there would be no flow? Appreciate any advice. If I can’t figure this out soon I’ll be calling in for repair 🙂
From the jet pump side hi and lo yes, from the circ pump side no.
Hi, 2001 Sundance Tango, in the past few years I’ve replaced the heater, and circ pump. Heater was heating with short bursts – of a on again, off again circ pump flow. Now heater clicks on and then right off.
Chris sounds like a water level, filter issue and or flow issue. I would start there first.
NIGEL
May 15, 2019Reply
Chris sounds like a water level, filter issue and or flow issue. I would start there first.
Nigel can I e-mail you a picture of my circuit board?
I don’t see an attachment option on the page.
Chris
Hi Chris if you go to our website you can chat live with me and attach your pics to the chat window. Here is the link: https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/
Nigel, I replaced the filter and the flow switch. Heat clicking on and right off. Any voltage testing I can do?
Hi Chris. We do offer a virtual troubleshooting service. Let me know if you would like to try it out. $89 per 15 minutes.
Sundance spa. fL1 code. Filters cleaned. Good flow. Won’t heat. Had similar problem years ago. Tub froze and broke. They blamed it on ozone and said no warranty coverage. Removed ozone system. Now I’ve got the same code that won’t let it heat even though everything is flowing properly. Is there a switch that I can try to replace.
What model Sundance Spa do you have Ron or what is your serial number?
hi, we have a 2004 or 2005 del sol hermosa hot tub, has been great for all these years until now. The hot tub stopped working recently and I have tried to diagnose the issue. I have replaced the circuit board, and temp sensor, and is now starting to circulate , but heaters are not coming on , I have tested the fuses and the relays have 240 volts on the line side, and no voltage on the heater side so the relay is not closing . there is an FL1 code that comes up. I checked the continuity of the flow switch and it is closed when pump and jets are flowing.Could it be a hi limit sensor ? this is not a complicated hot tub , only 1 motor with 2 speeds. simple display. when we turn off breaker, leave it off for 30 seconds then on again, the hot tub starts up displaying i.c.e, but heater indicator light does not turn on and eventually the fl1 code comes up again.Not sure what other compenents I can replace? Please advise. Gerry
Sounds like a dirty filter Gerry. Try running the spa briefly without the filter to see if the FL1 goes away. If it does not and you have good flow through the circulation jet with the filter out you may have an intermittent psi switch.
Ok, thanks, I’ll try that. I haven’t replaced the hi limit sensor, could that be a problem if removing filter doesn’t work?
no
Ok I took out filter , how long should it go before it corrects itself? I also jumpered psi switch and heater light came on on display but heaters not turning on ? Also board and version numbers are p/n 6600-286 and chip version is 3.57. .
Not long. With the heater icon lite on put your amp meter clamp around one of the heater wires. If your power feed service to the spa is 240 volts and you have somewhere between 18-22 amps that is proof your heater is heating.
I checked when heater light is on still no amperage , relay not CPU clicking on, and new board? Does it need a down load or something ? Is it right version and board number? Seems exactly same as old one
If you have no amperage with the heater lite on you could have a bad heater. Sounds like you could also have a bad psi switch.
Ok, but there is no voltage on the relay going to the heaters when the heater light is on,no codes for for 10 min ? could it be another faulty board ? then eventually goes back to FL1 code.
What is the serial number of your spa Gerry?
Tub is a del sol hermosa (sundance) 2005 or 2006…The P/n on control box schematic is P/N 6530-288 rev A. The old circuit board was 6600-289 rREV 5.54 new circuit board is 6600-286 REV 3.57
I will need your serial number Gerry. It’s a 9 digit code. Usually starts with the numeral 1. Can be found on the serial number id label usually on the Sentry Control Box or nearby.
Serial # 100194426
Gerry you have the wrong board and eprom chip. This is a link to the latest revision for your Del Sol Hermosa built 08/18/2005:
https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-circuit-board-pn-6600-722
It is in stock and would ship today.
I have a 2003 sweetwater cayman, New to us Hot Tub. Filled it today and started it up had code FL1, water looks to be circulating, once the tub is on you can see water flow coming from the jet at the bottom of the tub. After a few minutes the jets cycle and seems t go through the start up process correctly. though there may be an air lock issue so we tried the garden hose and rag trick, still nothing. tied bleeding from underneath at pumps, no air came out and you can hear the water circulating. Realized I did not fill the tub per the manual so i drained and refilled with hose in the filter housing inlet with a rag around it. Water came out of all the jets and seemed to fill normally, turned tub back on without installing filter to see if that made a difference. I am Still getting the FL1 error. I don’t think it is an airlock issue because as soon as the tub goes through the start up process you can see water flowing out of the lower water jet in the middle of the tub. Any advice is appreciated.
Jeremy sounds like you could have a bad connection from the psi switch to the board, blockage in the psi switch and or a bad psi switch. Here is a link to purchase a new psi switch. They are in stock and would ship today: https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/collections/hot-tub-parts-sundance-spas-flow-switches/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-pressure-switch-pn-6560-869
Hello, When I turn On the spa, the display show FL1 alarm, and do not start the pumps.
Hello Daniel. What is the make, model and serial number of your spa?
Hi Nigel, the model is HAWTHRN SN:OHW3LED-100389622-0111
Sounds like dirty filters in that 2011 Hawthorne Daniel. Here is a link to purchase new filters. They are in stock. Your spa takes 2: https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/collections/hot-tub-parts-sundance-spas-filters/products/sundance-spas-45-square-foot-filter-pn-373043
Do you have water movement through the waterfall with the waterfall selector turned on and Jet 1 turned on Daniel?
Hello Nigel,
No water movement, when I turn The power switch on,D the only thing that happens is the display showing FL1.
Sounds like you may have a bad and connection at the psi switch and or a bad psi switch. They are in stock. You can purchase them from this link: https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/collections/hot-tub-parts-sundance-spas-flow-switches/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-pressure-switch-pn-6560-869
Nigel,
i have a sundance chelsee spa with the dreaded code fl1. i have tried removing the filter / garden hose trick, and powering off/on the spa, but the code remains. when hit P1 once, the low jets come on – good water flow. when hit P1 again, the high jets come on – good water flow. when i hit P2 the high jets come on – good water flow. when i cycle power, error code remains. spa kicks on with high jets for a few minutes, then goes on low jets. because of the error code, it is not heating. is my circ switch/pump bad?
Thanks!
Joe
Joe with both jet pumps off and a call for heat do you have any water movement through the waterfall?
I had the waterfall removed several months ago. Grandson broke it and repairman wanted $500 to fix. He couldn’t find exact replacement, and new one would have to be re-wired. I just had fountain capped off. Spa had been working fine that way for months. Filter is brand new.
Easiest way to know if the circ pump is running without tools is to observe water movement through the waterfall. That not being possible you could look for water movement from the small circulation jet face in the footwell of the spa. That will be the small grate about the diameter of a silver dollar. If you put your hand in front of it and feel no water movement this would indicate that your circ pump is not running. A circ pump not running will cause an FL1 error code. Let me know if you would like to re-commision your waterfall. We have them in stock. We also have the cable adapters to adapt your old cable to the new connection on the new waterfall so you can operate your LED light.
There is no movement – the circ pump is not running. what now?
As for the waterfall, yes, i would like to have a working one. i have 2012 Chelsea. Tech said he couldn’t replace the original, and the replacement has new wires that would have to be traced all the way back to the main box. if you got the original or a replacement with the cable adapter, i am interested. Could you please send the link to the items? Thank you!
Use your multimeter and test for proper voltage at the circ pump test points on the board. If you have proper voltage your circ pump and or circ line could be blocked or plugged and or you could have a bad circ pump. If you don’t have proper voltage you could have a bad board. I’ve attached links for a new circ pump, waterfall and cable adapter. All parts are in stock and would ship today. The waterfall is easy to change. You could just run the new cable in between the skirt studs and the skirt. The ribbon cable is pretty flat. You don’t have to bury it in the foam again: https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-laing-series-circulation-pump-pn-6000-125e
https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/products/sundance-spas-waterfall-body-pn-6560-179
https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/products/sundance-spas-adapter-minidin-ribbon-cable-pn-6000-362
Hello Nigel,
Is there a way to check the psi switch to detect if it is defective using a voltmeter?
With an ohms meter you should have a reading of continuity with the circulation pump on. With the circulation pump off you should have an infinite reading Daniel.
Hello nigel,
But in my case that when I turn they power on, non of the pumps start, and the display blinks FL1?
What’s the make, model and serial number of your spa Daniel?
Hi Nigel, the model is HAWTHRN SN:OHW3LED-100389622-0111, you told me to check filters, so I took them off and the alarms still shows and the pumps do not start.
What is your voltage reading at the jet 1 test points on the board when you press the jet 1 button?
there is no voltage on the outputs when I press the jets, just the FL1 keeps flashing and nothing happens
Try bypassing your psi switch Daniel. If that doesn’t clear the FL1 you may have a bad board. They are in stock: https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-circuit-board-pn-6600-720
Hello Nigel,
I already tried to bypas the psi switch, the FL1 goes away, the heat call flashes on and off, but the pumps do not kick in, I do not have any output voltage on the board.
Could be a bad board. They are in stock: https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-circuit-board-pn-6600-720
Hello,
I have a 2006 Palermo 780 that was flashing FL1. I replaced the filter, and changed the water. When restarting,the GFCI would trip. We replaced the GFCI, and issue persisted. We unplugged the circulation pump, and it worked. We installed a new circulation pump, and now the breaker doesn’t trip, but we have the Flashing FL1. The flow switch shuts in under 1 sec. We have ran it 2x without filter, and code is still present. What would be next step? Thanks
Hi Ryan. Check for flow at the small circulation jet in the footwell. That is the smaller grate fitting in between the larger suction fittings. If you have no flow there but the circulation is running you may have an air lock. If the there is no flow there and the circulation pump is not running you will need to check for proper voltage at your circ pump test points on the board. Proper voltage but the pump not running could indicate a bad connection or a bad pump. Improper or no voltage could indicate a bad board.
Nigel, Sundance Tango 2001 single pump – 240v hookup. New circuit board, recently new heater and circ pump. What is the proper flow on the circ pump. Mine propels water every 5 seconds, not a continuous run. Is that normal? Is there a circuit board jumper to adjust that?
Thank you
Sounds like an airlock Chris.
Hi Nigel and team. I’m Ray and we have a 2003 Sweetwater Palermo that came with the house. It’s been working pretty well for the last two years but recently stopped working with the dreaded FL1 error on startup. With several days of Googling/reading/troubleshooting, I think I have narrowed it down to the PSI/Flow switch (which is original to the spa with original 2003 date tag). But I wanted to run it by you before I buy the part, and also to confirm the part number.
Spa turns on, goes through it’s test/startup, and then displays temp. I hear a relay click on but no heat light and FL1 starts flashing. Pumps kick on as they are supposed to (one then the other), and after about 10 minutes or so I get the – – – on the display and it shuts itself down.
The filter is old, but I did clean it, and for many of the tests, removed it to make sure it wasn’t causing any issues. I tried clearing any air – at the filter housing, at the circ pump behind the power panel, and at the pump (1). When I put the hose/rag in the filter housing (nearest the center of the spa) I did see some bubbles come up from the filter grate in the bottom of the spa. So I initially thought that might be it – nope – FL1 still there.
So I checked the resistance and continuity (both) at the PSI/flow switch – with the system off – and I get between 10 and 14 M Ohms. With the system turned on and pump 1 working, it stays the same or goes to OL. Not good. So then I even clamped the hoses on either side of the flow switch and removed the switch itself – not the entire unit, just unscrewed the switch from the top. I found a lot of growth/etc attached to the paddle and there was no way the paddle was making contact with the stem. I cleaned that all off and it looks very good now, but I still get the same readings under the same circumstances above.
I also pulled the hose off on the right side of the flow switch and there is plenty of flow coming out – I did have the system off if that matters.
Then I removed the switch again and manually pushed the paddle to the stem with the DMM leads in the connector. No continuity. So am I correct in that, regardless of whether or not this is my only issue, the switch is definitely bad? If so, what is the part number to replace?
Hi Ray. No continuity with the paddle touching the post is a likely a bad flow switch. This is the link to the switch. It is in stock and would ship Monday:
https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/collections/hot-tub-parts-sundance-spas-flow-switches/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-flow-switch-pn-2560-040
The — error code is called Watchdog. That is a different issue. Except for a runaway heat condition its typically caused by a poor connection at the board, bad temp and or hi limit sensor or bad board. In rare instances a bad transformer and or topside control panel. All these parts are in stock and would ship Monday. Please let me know if you require further parts links to purchase these parts.
Ok – New switch is see through so that helps. But I replaced the switch and no luck. The paddle is not closing. Also, is the switch body supposed to be completely filled with water with no air? I ask because there is a slight bubble at the top of the switch – well above the paddle – where it is clear there is air.
I tried using the water hose in the filter housing. No luck. Just to be clear – you are supposed to put the hose in the side of the filter housing closest to the center (control panel) where the twist lock for the filter is – correct – and not the small one at the other side (wall) of the spa.
It’s clear there is not enough flow to move the paddle – just not sure why. Is there a way to test the circ pump to see if it is working? I know pump 1 and 2 are working fine. I can’t tell if the circ pump is working. I did remopve the hose at the front of the circ pump (intake) and then reattached to try and ensure no air. And then I even loosened the clamp around it again and let some water out to ensure no air. There really is no way to bleed from the discharge side going into the heater because it’s such a small run. I also saw a small square screw fitting – though I am not sure what that adjustment is for.
Would appreciate any thoughts/help. Thank you very much.
Hi Ray. The paddle not touching the post indicates no flow from the circ pump. Put your hand on the pump. It emanates a slight vibration when it is running. They also run quite hot. If you don’t feel a vibration from the circ pump it is dead. If you feel a vibration from it than the impellor could be plugged. Check for proper voltage at the circ pump test points on the board with your multimeter. If you have 240VAC +/- 10% there than you have a bad circ pump. If you don’t have 240VAC you have a bad board. The small screw on the heater is where Sundance used to have a freeze line fitting. It was replaced on later revision heaters with a plug when they eliminated the freeze line coming off the heater on their production line. This is the link to a new circ pump. It is in stock and would ship today:
https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/collections/hot-tub-parts-sundance-spas-pumps/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-laing-series-circulation-pump-pn-6000-125e
Thank you Nigel. I still have to check for 240VAC at the board for the circ pump, but I put my hand on it and really didn’t feel anything except that it was VERY hot. I could not keep my hand on it for long. Is that normal? How would I check the impeller?
Thank you again.
If you can’t keep your hand on it most likely there is power going to it and it’s a bad pump. You would need to take the pump apart to access the impellor. A Tech trick: The pump is held down with some small drywall screws fastened to the wood base of the spa. You can crimp off the inlet hose in front of the pump and outlet after the heater before the flow switch with vise grips. You will lose a bit of water but this way you can change the pump without draining the spa. If you have two wine corks they fit perfectly inside the end of the hoses to plug off the water as well while you service things out.
Have a new to me 2004 Sundance Portofino Caprio that is getting a flashing FL1 error only after it reaches 99 degrees. New filter, flow switch checks out, circulation pump works. It’s consistent and repeatable always around 99 degrees. If the jets are on high the heat will remain on and I’ve got it to rise higher than 99. Would something about the higher temps prevent flow or make a potential blockage worse. Tub sat for 4 months or so and was cleaned thoroughly before filling. Any suggestion is appreciated, thanks!
Hi Nick. 2 questions for you. 1. Does the flashing FLO message remain on the topside control if the jets are on high and the heat icon is on when you are getting the temp to rise higher then 99? 2. Has the flow switch ever been changed on this spa?
Hi Nigel,
The flashing ‘FL1’ code is not present when the jets are on high, heater light remains on as well. Seems like it’s functioning as it should Can’t be sure about the flow switch, it doesn’t visibly show too much age and seems to respond appropriately to a mutlimeter hooked up.
Sounds like perhaps a flow switch hooked up improperly, an incorrect flow switch and or a bad flow switch Nick.
HI Nigel – looking at that replacement pump for my 2003 Palermo, I see the replacement you sell has a screw or relief valve of some type in the top of it, but I don’t see that on the original. What is that for, and does it matter? Thanks!
Both are drain plugs. One can be removed and replaced with a freeze line adapter on later hot tub revisions Ray.
Hello:
I have a Sundance Optima hot tub. Stupidly, I got a garden hose stuck in the Filter Suction Assembly. I ended up cutting the hose, but when I tried to remove the small stuck section, it was sucked into the piping. I was looking for a plumbing diagram that might help me locate where this pressure line runs to hopefully remove the piece of hose.
Thanks for any advice.
Hi Michael. What is the serial number of your Optima?
Serial #: 0X03LCD-100343639-0309
Hi Michael. The suction line on your 2009 Optima partially terminates at the inlet fitting to the smaller aqua-flo circulation pump. If you undo the inlet fitting on the pump you may find what you are looking for there.
Can someone please answer my question from June 8th?
Thank you
What’s the serial number of your Hamilton Spa Ben?
Hey Nigel,
Serial number is OXH3LXD 100272967-0407
I’m currently running both pumps without filters to see if that helps. The place I purchased from recommended doing that for at least 15 minutes.
I also reached in to see if there was anything coming out where the heated water (recirc pump was on) comes into the tub and can definitely feel flow coming out. Of course, it isn’t hot like normal. Thus, the FL1 code. Thanks so much, Nigel!
Sounds like you may have a bad connection from the flow switch to the board and or a bad flow switch. They are in stock and ship quick. Here is the link to purchase one: https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-flow-switch-pn-2560-040
Nigel, in your experience is it possible the flow switch is bad even if it closes? I’m trying to check with my meter but is difficult to get leads to the contact points.
It could be bad Ben. There is no code for a bad heater. The heat icon typically does not appear if the heater is bad but I have seen the heater icon on when the heater has been bad as well.
I checked the flow switch with my meter and it doesn’t show continuity when I manually close it so I’m guessing (hoping) that’s the problem.
Thanks for all your help and prompt responses, Nigel.
All good Ben. Will you be purchasing the new flow switch from our link today? https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-flow-switch-pn-2560-040
i changed both pumps and flow switch on peyton hot tub and still cant get to heat up or pump 1 to go what can i do now and still FL 1 flashing ?
What region are you in Troy?
I live in North Dakota
If the flow switch and jet pump 1 are wired correctly, and you have power going to jet pump 1 and jet pump 1 turns on check for an air lock or blockage in the line ie ice etc. If you don’t have power going to jet pump 1 you could have a poor connection so check for power at the pump set points on the board. If you don’t have power there you could have a bad board. If you do have power there you could have a bad cap and or bad pump.
I have an 09 camden sundance hot tub, it’s giving an FL1 code. I’ve replaced the filter, replaced the circulation pump, replaced the flow switch, and replaced the heater. I’ve also tried the garden hose thing, loosened the bleeder on the main pump impeller to try to bleed air out, but only water came out. Reset the hot tub several times. I checked voltage and circulation pump is getting 114v on each wire, black and the white one, but the circulation pump isn’t running. Any ideas?
If you have 230V across both circ pump wires at the board, the circ pump is programmed to run and you have no water movement through the waterfall with the waterfall valve in the on position you most likely have a bad connection from the pump to the board, a plugged pump and or a bad pump Brian: https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/collections/hot-tub-parts-sundance-spas-pumps/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-laing-series-circulation-pump-pn-6000-125e
I have a Sundance hermosa. The pump shaft locked up so I replaced the pump. The system has a single pump with 2 speeds. Once replaced I filled the tub back up through the filter location. Bleed the pump valves to remove the air. Turned the system on. The pump will run low speed for 4-5 minutes, all jets look to be working. Then the system will display the FL1 error and heater and pump stop. I can then turn on the high speed and the heat light comes back on. But same deal, 4-5 minutes past and FL1 error pops up and heater and pump stop working. What should I try?
Make sure you have your pump wires hooked correct to the board ie neutral, hi and lo and that these coorispond to the neutral hi and lo on the back of the pump motor. If that all checks out you could have an issue with the pressure switch.
Hi I have a 2005 Sundance Bahia that came with our house. Initially once we cleaned it and got power to it had 12 jets out of 32 working. In may I replaced pump #1 the 2 speed pump, replaced old broken liquid tight conduit with liquid tight conduit with metal flex conduit inside to keep from getting crushed again. I replaced wires with proper THHN # 6 wire what they were using looking smaller gauge and added a AC disconnect at the deck as gfci breaker is 20 feet under deck to far away and replaced one Diverter valve.
Few days ago noticed not heating up fully. Like 99 degrees when set at 104 and noticed pump # 1 had surging at times when coming out of jets. At one point lost all heat down to 68 degrees, got an COL AND FL1 code. I cleaned the filter, and used house to poor water in filter inlet and cracked both jet pumps to remove air potentially.
I also checked heater getting 240 volts on inlet relay and outlet relay for heater on terminals. Initially circulation pump appeared working via looking in flow switch tube and out circulation vent. Heat light was not coming on, checked flow switch via multi meter via ohms and had continuity when closed and not when open part of the time seemed like not working intermitently. I bypassed flow switch got out to 91 degrees eventually 96 degrees. Stayed at 96 degrees with flow switch hooked up for over 24 hours, no heat light. Temp on control pad seemed close to laser temp device off a few degrees. Can hear relay click when short relay and when don’t. Could feel water moving in both tubes coming from Circulation pump. Checked resistance on temp sensor 20.68 ohms and temp high limit 21.90 ohms.
I left sit like that over night and checked next evening still 96 degrees and no heat light on. Checked circulation pump worked right before checked inlet for circulation pump and flow switch tube was working. I jumped the flow switch only a few minutes and got watch dog error with —- Noticed heat tube really hot. Tripped power several times to reset, circulation pump is no longer working not sure if maybe weak before causing heating issue. I removed jumper as realized I caused heat tube to heat up and circulation pump most have not been working for some reason when fine prior. Let the tube cool down, removed limit switch from tube, tried recleaning filter, pushing water in filter inlet and bleeding air from jet pumps via connections and hose clamps on circulation pumps. Still no circulation pump working. It has 240 volts leaving circuit board to pump didn’t check at the pump by removing cover but heard no noise from pump when could hear noise prior and failed to feel if hot or not.
I take it must have fried the pump via bypassing the flow switch not sure why circulation pump was not working yet when seemed to work prior. When I short the flow switch and feel tube heat up only did for a short amount of time. Is there a chance could still just be a blockage on circulation pump or air lock? Also how do I know the heater element is still good don’t want to replace in case I need to. Planning to replace temp sensor just so new and the flow switch which is what I think my initial problem is unless inadequate flow from circulation pump initially with flow switch intermitent issue and now just when out when I happened to bypass flow switch.
Pump #1 surging sounds like low water level in spa. If you have 240VAC leaving board to the circ pump and the circ pump is not turning on and you have no water movement through the circulation jet you either have a plugged circ pump and or a bad circ pump.
Would you go with a lang pump on that hot tub or go with grundfos? Heard Grundfos are way better.
Laing pump Jeremy, your old one is probably dead. We stock those and they ship quick. Here’s the link to buy it: https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-laing-series-circulation-pump-pn-6000-125e
Hello, I have a 2007 Sundance Hawthorne 680 and when I’m using it I have both pumps on and pump 1 will shut off and flash FL1, pump 2 still works. I do not have a circulation pump, I know it says to loosen the drain plug on pump 1 to bleed the air out, the drain plug is on the bottom right side of pump 1. I did this today and later in the eve it did it again. I also recently replaced the temp sensor and the pressure switch. How can I fix this and is there anyway to override the temp gauge to get it hotter than 104. Thanks
When pump one is running and pump two is off do you have flow through the therapy jet Robert?
There is no heat override for that model.
My 2014 Sundance Certa has begun throwing occasional FL 1 errors. I’ve tried the obvious (changed out filters, water hose to purge air, visually checked flow switch–looks clean/working). I haven’t done any voltmeter work yet, but the one weird thing that I was hoping for comment from you, is that it seems like the FL 1 error occurs when the outside air temp is below freezing, and doesn’t happen when above freezing. I saw you advised checking if the pump is overheating by feeling it when the FL 1 error first occurs (which I will try to do the next time it happens), but wouldn’t the cold vs warm outside air temp be reversed, ie, when it’s warm out, the pump would overheat more?
Also, I realized my circ pump was set to only run 8-hours / day (factory setting). I’ve changed that to 24 (per manual’s recommendation for sub-freezing temps). I only tried this today, so don’t know if this change will help/hurt.
Thoughts? TIA!
You could check the switch with an ohm meter. Intermittent error codes are sometimes difficult to diagnose. With the paddle touching the post you should have a reading of continuity. Paddle away from the post you should have an infinite reading. If you don’t have these readings check your connection from the switch to the board. If the connection is good try a new switch: https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/collections/hot-tub-parts-sundance-spas-flow-switches/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-flow-switch-pn-2560-040
We have a Sundance 680 Series McKinley Model. I believe it’s around 2011-2013. It came with the house we bought. It worked great from October up until about a month ago when it started a flashing FL1 code. This model doesn’t have a “flow switch” but I replaced the pressure switch (if anything I have a backup). Connecting a jumper gave me an FL2 code so, I figured that MIGHT be it. We have cleaned and replaced filters and have no air-lock. It’s still doing the same thing. Code won’t clear. Turning it on at the breaker brings the system up and it clicks and the 2-speed pump hums and does nothing. Then it tries the 1 speed pump. Nadda. No pumps or heat turn on but the board clicks and the pumps hum. We have no jets, no heat and no circulating. I don’t want it to get worse or create other issues. What am I missing? Thanks so much in advance for any advice 🙂
Access the back of the pump motors. There is a spot you can insert a flat head screw driver in the back of the motor. Try to rotate the shaft. If the motor shaft doesn’t move on either pump your motors are locked up. Seems kinda funny a pump would lock up if things were working good and just stopped working now but maybe something got stuck in the impellors and locked up the shafts. You could also drain the spa, open the pump union and stick your finger inward of the pump inlet to see if the pump impellor turns. If the shaft is turning ok then you may have to bad pump motors. Also funny that both would go at the same time. You could pull the two speed pump out and bench test it to see if it works with direct power applied to it to confirm if the pump is bad. It is a 230V pump.
I recently has and issue with my 2008 Sundance Certa 780 coming up with an FL1 issue. I determined it was the circulation pump and replaced it. It was working good no fl1 code but didn’t seem to be heating good and the water out of the tub was not hot. I checked and the heater it was getting 240 out of the board so I decided to check the heater so I disconnected the power and the heater was reading 10.x ohms. Heater is only 18 months old so should be fine but checked it anyway. After reconnecting the heater and powering the tub on it is now showing SN1 and Sn2. Can both the heat sensor and high limit sensors go bad or is something else going on. Only other thing I observed was the plastic box for the heater has a small drip leak. Thanks Chris
Hi limit rarely go bad. Curios both SN codes are on after disconnecting the heater. Check all your sensor harness connections to make sure they are making good contact. If you get to the point where the heat icon light is on again do an amp test off of one of the heater wires. If the heater box is leaking the heater will need to be replaced regardless if it heats or not.
Yes both SN codes came on after disconnecting the heater to check ohms, after I reinstalled the heater connectors and powered it back on I had SN1 and SN2 codes. I pulled the high limit and heat sensor plug they go into the same connector and inspected and reconnected them and still have the same codes SN1 and SN2. I will do the amp test if I get the heater indicator back on what should I be looking for on this when I check the one wire? The heater is only 18 months old is there a bad seal I can replace or does the entire heater need to be replaced. It is a small black box with the skinny U shaped tube going around it. Could the heater be causing the codes? The new circulation pump could not cause this issue correct?
22-23 amps is typical. If it leaks replace it. It cannot activate error codes. The circ pump cannot cause those codes. Sounds like a bad connection and or bad sensor to start.
Could the high limit disc inside the heater box cause the sn1 and sn2 codes to blink. If i replaced the high temp and high limit sensors what are the other options for the sn1 and sn2 codes both blinking?
The disc would not cause those codes. A poor connection and or bad sensors would cause it typically Chris.
Okay what is my next steps if I already replace both sensors and cleaned connections even though they looked good. I check all other connections and they looked good?
Where are you located Chris?
I live I Austin mn no spa techs within 2 hours of me!
What’s the 9 digit serial number of your spa?
OXT3LXD. 100282702. 0607
The middle number must be the number you need since it’s 9 numbers.
We offer a virtual diagnostic service Chris. $99.00 per 15min through a live chat session. We would require you to have a specific set of tools on hand to provide this service ie multimeter capable of checking amp draw and various other hand tools. Let me know if you would like to sign up for it. Most issues can be figured out in approx 15min. Alternatively if you don’t want to do the virtual service I would suggest hiring a licensed Sundance Tech in your region to work on your 2007 Sundance Certa.