intellichlor flashing lights

My Intellichlor lights used to have solid lights in the percent output area. Now the green light is flashing. I just got my water tested at your store and all the levels are ideal.
Please call me for help in what to do.
thank you!

Replies

  1. Nigel

    Reply

    Bernice if the green lights are flashing in the sanitizer output area this usually means you are in Boost mode. Depress the More and Less button together to deactivate Boost mode. If the green light is flashing in the Salt level area this indicates your salt level is high. If the green light is flashing in the Status area this indicates you should inspect the blades of the salt cell for debris and or calcium buildup.

  2. Victor Sanders

    Reply

    My intellichlor output lights are flashing but it is not in boost mode. When it is in boost mode they are flashing from low to high in sequence but it’s not in boost mode they’re just flashing on and off.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Victor if your IntelliChlor is a 2011 model or later the five LED indicators display as a bar graph to show the cell output in either 2% or 20% increments, the percentage of the total output capacity of chlorine being produced. Percentages from 2% to 10% are represented by blinking LED’s. Percentages from 20% to 100% are represented by solid LED’s. In Boost mode these LED’s scroll from left to right. Depending on which light is blinking simply press the More or Less button to increase or decrease percentage.

  3. T proper

    Reply

    I have a Pentair cell unit.
    I have 5 flashing lights going all at same time.
    On the sanitizer outpost. All other lights are normal/good.
    I’ve cleaned it out.
    On low speed the output of water into the pool is at 50% or lower. The water going into the skimmer being sucked is DOWN 90%. Hardly any suction is going down in the skimmer.
    Pool light is green for flow. My chlorine is way to high. Can you please help me with solutions. The cell is New. The flow into the pool way down. And 90% down in the skimmer.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      5 flashing led lights represents cell output at 10%.
      Remove your filter and try and run the system briefly without the filter to see if your flow improves. Check your skimmer and pump basket and pump impellor for blockage which can cause poor suction. Also make sure your weir door or float is properly installed in the skimmer and your water is at operating level.

  4. Tony Fiallo

    Reply

    Just posted. I meant to say. Hold for 5 seconds .. also, my skimmer basket is completely clean as well as my pump basket.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Tony in Boost mode the LED’s scroll from left to right. If you would like to take the IntelliChlor out of Boost mode simply hold down the More and Less buttons til the LED’s stop scrolling and then depress the more or less buttons as needed to set your desired percentage output.

      • Tony Fiallo

        Reply

        Nigel, Tks for the response. First, it was doing all the ights from left to right. I did press both the more n less buttons together n it went to 3 lights from left to right (20,40,60). I shout-off the power completely st the brkr box, waited 10 mns, then turned the brkr on. The lights are the same, flashing from left to right. I will try again doing what u recommend, maybe I did not press the 2 buttons correctly. Tks!

        • Nigel

          Reply

          No problem Tony. There also is an initialization mode when you power down and power up where the LED lights flash. It lasts perhaps 1-3min before the board settles on a percentage level.

  5. Tony Fiallo

    Reply

    Sry about keep bothering you Nigel. I tried the steps, lights went down completely. Then, as soon as I raise 20,40 n 60%, they won’t stop flashing, even waiting five mns after they come in flashing.. salt level n flow lights r good (green)…

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Tony if only one of the percentage lights is flashing this would indicate the cell is producing in the upper ratio ie if it is flashing 60 the cell would be producing at 60%. If it is a solid non flashing 60 light the cell would be producing at 6%. If all the lights are flashing it could be initializing or in cell clean mode. If it continues to flash after 24hrs and you are not in boost mode you may have a bad cell.

  6. Malcolm Denemarlk

    Reply

    HI, the “more/less” light blinks on my 6 month old IC40, no matter what setting I put it on, I have held down both button, tried everything, no matter what power I am using, the light blinks, Please advice. Cell clean, basket, filter clean chemicals good.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Malcolm the percentage lights blink when you have the cell set between 2% and 10% ie if one light is blinking you are set for 2%, 2 lights blinking 4%, 5 lights blinking means you are at 10%. If you press the more button while you are at 10% the 2% light will go on but the light will stay solid which means you are at 20%. Pressing the more button at 20% will turn the second light solid and you will be at 40% etc until you reach 100%. You could also press the less button to lower the percentage. 2% to 10% are blinking lights and 20% to 100% are solid lights. If you press the more and less buttons together you will turn on boost mode and all the percentage led’s will scroll for 24hrs. Pressing the more and less buttons again will turn off boost mode.

  7. Bill Murray

    Reply

    Sanitizer lights were off. I added salt and as soon as I pressed the MORE button, the greens lightsscroll on/ off from 20 to 100%. It just keeps scrolling. When I press Less/More, nothing happens. I’ve disconnected/reconnected power and same thing.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Bill. It sounds like your IntelliChlor is in Boost mode. The lights scroll while in Boost mode.
      To turn Boost mode on or off simply hold down the More and Less buttons together. I’ve attached full instructions on this from page 8 of your owners manual:

      Boost On/Off: Press both the More and Less buttons together to turn Boost mode on or off. Boost mode sets
      the sanitizer output to run 100% for the next 24 hours of pool pump run time. If the time clock switches off the
      pump cycle, then switches power back on the next day, Boost mode will continue until 24 hours has elapsed
      since Boost mode was turned on or Boost mode is canceled by the user. The Sanitizer Output display will scroll
      the output LEDs to indicate Boost mode.

  8. Billy Murray

    Reply

    When I press MORE/LESS it does nothing

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Billy. They can be kinda finnicky those buttons. I would power cycle the cell and then try depressing the MORE and LESS buttons together again. If no luck you could have a bad cell.

  9. Lee

    Reply

    My new intellichlor IC40 has the high salt light flashing, the easy touch mother display says my salt is at 5100 ppm, I have only had this a week, my pool water has tested 3 times at 2900ppm.
    Is there a way to calibrate the mother display in the easy touch box?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Lee. The EasyTouch does not calibrate the IntelliChlor. EasyTouch has capability to calibrate the water, air and solar sensors. The IntelliChlor self calibrates. If the salt good light is flashing green this does mean the salt level is very hi in the pool. This should be corrected quickly to prevent damage to pool equipment. Try to check your salt level with another device in case the one you are using is not calibrated properly or broken or if you are taking your water to a test lab try another lab in case they are giving an inaccurate reading. If you have two independant sources saying the salt level is 3000ppm and the IntelliChlor salt light is still flashing green I would suggest there may be a problem with the salinity sensor in the cell and the cell may need to be changed out.

  10. Tammy Vetor

    Reply

    I have cleaned my Cell,Pump Baskets and Skimmer, but my Salt Chlorinator keeps “Flashing High Salt” & “Check Cell”. I have been getting my Salt tested and it comes back very low at 1. I’m adding Salt and it’s up to 2 1/2. I’m raising it slowly but its still flashing High Salt when its Low. And its still flashing check Cell.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Tammy. It sounds like you may have a bad cell. Do you have an ic20 or ic40?

  11. Tammy Vetor

    Reply

    Thanks Nigel.
    I should have a ic40. I am going to check on that. My pool is 32,000 gallons

  12. Tamela

    Reply

    H Nigel I have a green light flashing saying to clean cell I have taken the system apart twice and acid cleaned the cells. and the light still blinks the salt levels are good and I had my water tested which is good. Is the system still producing chlorine?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Tamela. How old is the cell?

  13. Tamela

    Reply

    Hi,
    I’m not sure we just bought the house last August. The pool is only about 3-4 yrs old. Since the light has started blinking I have been adding my own chlorine bc I’m sure if the salt system is producing anything.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Tamela. Because you are adding your own chlorine it would be tough to know if the cell is producing and if it is at what level even though it is saying to clean the cell. If you stopped adding chlorine and noticed that the chlorine level dropped and the cell was not maintaining a chlorine residual then you would know the cell could be bad. 3-4 yrs is pretty good for a cell. Most people replace them around that time.

  14. Kristal

    Reply

    My ic 40 will not allow me to increase percent to 100. If i push more it does nothing. If i lower it to 60 it says for a few seconds flashes and then returns to 80. What may be wrong?

  15. Dolly Thomas

    Reply

    In the salt level section saying low salt system off. The light is flashing green saying hi salt but the light below it is flashing red What is going on?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Dolly. The flashing green light means hi salt and the flashing red light mean salt is low. With a salt reading of 3000ppm you should have a solid green light in the salt level area.
      Have your salt level tested at a lab. If the salt level is 3000ppm and you have a chlorine reading of 3ppm and the lights still run in this manner after 24hrs with both the green and red lights blinking check for 22-39VDC coming from the power supply to the cell. If this checks out, you have 3000ppm salt and you are not getting a 3ppm chlorine reading you could have a bad cell. Make sure you add some raw chlorine to the pool ie sticks or shock if your cell is not producing chlorine.

  16. Jason

    Reply

    Hi. Just read thru all the comments. Some help but nothing really matches my situation. My good green and low red lights flash at same time and the red light for flow is lit but there is plenty of flow thru cell. Also when I hold down more button for 3 seconds it lights up cold water, cell and flow lights. Any ideas?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Jason. You first want to make sure your salt level in the water is at least 3000ppm. If it is not than raise your salt level to this ppm. Once you have it there reboot the cell by power cycling the power supply and check to see if things return to normal. Check the screen in the cell for blockage on the flow switch side union. Sometimes if you get small debris tangled up in this screen it can cause the flow switch to produce the Flow light.

  17. Debby

    Reply

    i have an ic40 that was purchased 3 mo ago. I had put the boost on but now even with repeated steps to turn it off it wont go back to a solid green. Now it is flashing all green lights at 100%. I know reading your other posts that this will produce a less amt only 10% output. It will not convert back to solid green. Is there a way to reset the chlorinator so that it resorts back to the original settings so that it will go back to solid green. All the other lights are functioning correctly.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Debby. It sounds like the ic40 could be in boost mode. If the lights are all scrolling press the more and less buttons together and this should turn boost mode off. To lower or raise the percentage you simply would need to press the more or less buttons. If the buttons are not performing this way you may have a bad cell.

  18. Greg

    Reply

    Hi, Nigel
    I’ve got a similar issue: My IC15 reads solid green for salt level, cell status and flow, but the 5 sanitizer output lights flash in sequence constantly.
    I can put the unit in “Boost” mode as per the manual, but once it’s finished its 24 hour run, it’s back to sequential flashing.\
    With the exception of chlorine, all chemical levels are in the recommended range. The unit is less than a year old, and cleaning (though not needed), makes no difference.
    If it’s a “bad cell”, I hope that means replacing some parts as opposed to replacing the unit. Who can afford $800 per season (plus the hassle and lost usage time), to chlorinate their pool?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Greg. It sounds like it’s in Boost mode. But if it is not or you can’t get it out of Boost mode you could have a bad cell. If the cell is less then a year old and you bought it new from a Pentair dealer you may have warranty left on it. Check with the dealer you purchased it from.

  19. Stacy Reyher

    Reply

    My Pentair intellichlor won’t come on at all. I thought I had blown a fuse but can’t find the fuse box. It is a newer model bought in 2016. Do you know where the fuse might be located?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Stacy. The fuse is inside the power center box.

  20. Shon P OBrien

    Reply

    Hello Nigel, I have a client with an IC40, (40% life used) after I cleaned the cell the “CELL LIGHT” stays green for a few minutes then flashes. The chlorine levels are at 0 now, rest of water is balanced. Easytouch says “check cell” . cell is spotless. I’ve cleaned approx every three months with no issues why the green flashing cell light this time?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Shon. If you can take the IntelliChlor offline from the Easytouch by putting ET in service mode see if the IntelliChlor reacts any differently. Doubtful it will but should try that first. If no luck with that it sounds like you could have a bad cell.

  21. Julie

    Reply

    I understand what you are telling us about boost mode and flashing % and solid mode. What I can’t figure out is why my new cell only 2 months old, went to a solid light to a flashing light. No matter what process I use to try get it back to the solid light it continues to go back to flashing. My question to you is it okay to just stay in the flashing % mode as long as it’s making chlorine?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Julie. If the cell is producing chlorine that is important. Not being able to lock the % at the higher tier between 20% and 100% could be limiting to you one day if you require a higher percentage level. If the cell is only 2 months old I would suggest seeing who you purchased it from for service and or replacement. There is usually at least one year warranty on IntelliChlor cells if purchased from a Pentair dealer.

  22. John W Prather

    Reply

    I have a ~2yr old IC40. I used these cells for 10 yrs so I am familiar with how they behave. All Chemicals and flows in the pool are in spec and the cell is clean. The IC will produce chlorine in the boost mode and raise level to 3 ppm but after the boost the output leds just flash on and off and chlorine level drops to 0. It clearly sates on the cell that if the leds are flashing on and off that the cell is in low output mode but there is mo mention of this in the manual. What is low output mode? Why is it written on the cell But not in manual? What good does it do to know you are in low output mode with no solution given? Pentair needs to do a better job here. I an guessing this is just a way to let you know its time for a new cell. My first one lasted 5 years with proper maintenance. This will be my third in 5 years. Do you know if there is a way to get out of low output mode other than pressing boost?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi John. When the LED’s are blinking you are producing at 2% to 10% depending on how many lights are blinking ie 1 or 5. When the LED’s are solid you are producing at 10% to 100% depending on how many lights are solid ie 1 or 5. You can lower your production at anytime by pressing the less button. You can raise your production at anytime by pressing the more button.

  23. John W Prather

    Reply

    It appears that there are now three modes for the cell out put leds. 1 Normal – cells leds stay lit at the level of output you set. 2 Boost – leds flash sequentially from left to right for 24 hours when Boost is on. 3 Low Out put mode – Leds flash on and off att setting of oupt you select. Its the third mode that is not explained any where I have looked including the manual. In this third mode little or no chlorine is produced with no guide as to how to get out of this mode of operation.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi John. There is output from 2% to 10%, output from 20% to 100% and Boost mode.

  24. Malcolm Denemark

    Reply

    Hi, my salt cell percentage lights just started blinking. You had told me how to fix this a year ago and it worked, Now when Push the “More” button, lights blink up and down the display ( flow, cold turn red) then salt light stays solid for a few seconds then goes to blinking again, nothing gets it out of low percentage mode. Cell is fairly new, cleaned, works perfectly before.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Malcolm. If the percentage light are blinking up and down the display it sounds like you are in boost mode. Press More and Less buttons together to turn boost mode off. If only one percentage light is blinking then you are in the low percentile of sanitizer production ie 2% to 10%. Simply press the more button if you want to move to the higher percentile or the less button if you want to move down in production. Red flow light means the pump is off, flow is obstructed, filter is dirty or there’s a problem with connection to the flow switch and or the flow switch. Flashing green salt light is high salt, solid green salt light is good salt. If the cold water light is on the water is too cold and the cell will not produce til the water warms up.

  25. Pauline Schroeder

    Reply

    Hi, I have an IntelliChlor IC40. I’m starting the cell up again after winter. The salt level lights are both flashing green and red and my flow light is red. I have cleaned the cell, cleaned my filters, my salt level is at 3000, and pool temp is 68 degrees. The life usage of my cell is only at 20%. Any ideas as to why I can’t get green lights across the board?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Pauline. If the flow light is red that would indicate no flow, system off or poor flow.
      Do you have good water movement to the return jets into the pool?

  26. Pauline Schroeder

    Reply

    Yes, there is good water movement. I’m at a loss for what to do next…

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Pauline. It does sound like the flow switch and or possibly the cell is bad. What region are you in?

  27. Pauline Schroeder

    Reply

    I am in Northern CA. The cell still has 80% of life left, what would cause the flow switch or the cell itself to go bad? Frustrating!

    • Nigel

      Reply

      The switch could have lost its calibration and or have a leak to current in the potting. The onboard cell diagnostic board could have some burnt out diodes/resistors. If you have 80% life it must not be very old. What year/month did you purchase it and did you purchase it from an authorized Pentair dealer?

  28. John

    Reply

    When I started up my system this spring, my Intellichlor showed I had around 2,000 ppm so I added salt. I kept adding bag after bag but could never get it up to 3,000 ppm. I then realized maybe it wasn’t reading correctly. I cleaned the cell and tried again. Still a low reading. I checked the salt with a kit and it showed around 5,000 ppm. I then diluted the pool some and got it down to 4,200 ppm. The cell still shows a reading of 2,100 though so the red low salt light is on. Is there a way to re-calibrate the cell so that it will read correctly and run properly? The unit is only 2 years old.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi John. The IntelliChlor does not have a re-calibrate option. If the Green LED, good salt light is on the pool water salt level is between 2800ppm and 4500.
      If the Green LED is flashing, salt level is above 4500 ppm.
      If the Red LED low salt light is on, the water salt level is below 2800 ppm. TheIntelliChlor SCG will be producing chlorine at reduced efficiency.
      If the Red LED low salt light is flashing, the water salt level has fallen below 2600ppm. The IntelliChlor SCG will not produce chlorine until salt is added. The IntelliChlor SCG is OFF.
      After every salt addition, the pump should be allowed to run for at least 24 hours for proper dilution. Salinity readings should only be taken, after the dilution period.

  29. John

    Reply

    I understand all of that, but the salt content in the pool is actually at 3,800 now but the Intellichlor shows it Red – low salt, and the easy touch shows that it is at 2,350. It’s off by about 1,500 ppm. It won’t make chlorine even though these is plenty of salt in the pool.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Are you hooked up to ScreenLogic or do you just have the stand alone EasyTouch load center at the equipment pad and an indoor IDC?

  30. John

    Reply

    I am using the controller at the equipment and screen logic on my phone. They both are showing the low salt reading.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      John the EasyTouch load box at the equipment pad isn’t capable of displaying salt level. Only capable of setting % of salt for pool and or spa. At least on the ones I’ve worked with for the last 15yrs. You could try to disconnect the IntelliChlor communication cable from the EasyTouch and run the IntelliChlor independent of the EasyTouch if the IntelliChlor has it’s own power center outside of the EasyTouch load box to see if it performs differently. Beyond that it sounds like it could be a bad salinity sensor and or bad cell.

  31. Michael W

    Reply

    Hi,

    My IC40 is about 4 years old and every winter I put a blank on to try to save it. Last year when I put the SWC on after winter I got the red no flow lights, after unplugging it a couple of times it started working normal again. Yesterday I put on the IC40 for the first time this year and it is red with the no flow indicator. Is this a bad flow switch or could there be something else occurring? I checked with Pentair and since it is over 2 years old they will not warranty the unit. I would hate to have to buy a new one because 4 years is not that old. Thank you.

  32. Robin Jessogne

    Reply

    HI Nigel, thanks for your time. I have a IC20. Last year we had issues with trying to up or lower the boost. It was as if the buttons didn’t work. Finally it was stuck on a higher boost and in order to get it off we had to unplug it. At startup this year only the green FLOW light is on. That’s it…no other lights. Does it sound like a bad cell? it’s probably 4 years old at this point and cleaned regularly.

  33. Donna

    Reply

    Meant to say salt level is fine

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Donna. Red flow light means poor flow ie dirty filters, baskets or blockage, bad connection at the flow switch and or bad flow switch.

  34. Robert Kirtley

    Reply

    A question I haven’t seen addressed. I have a Pentair IC40. Fairly new, less than 2 years old. The flow light and cell light cycle every 5 to 7 seconds. That is, both will be steady green. Then the flow light will cycle steady red and the cell light goes off completely. As soon as the flow light cycles back to steady green the cell light also goes steady green. I just cleaned the Pentair filter. all baskets and cleaned the IC40 of scale via 1 part muriatic acid to 4 parts water.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Robert you could have a bad connection at the flow switch and or plug flow switch and or a bad flow switch. Check the paddle’s integrity.

  35. Dan

    Reply

    My pool is now 2 years old, my ic15 salt generator has been working fine until month ago. The high salt light has come on & stayed on, re-booted power several times, same
    Scenario, water flow good, check salt level with kit. If salt sensor defective could these be replaced without replacing whole IC15 ?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Dan. What is your salt level ppm in the pool today?

  36. Steve Kotzum

    Reply

    I have a 10,000 gallon pool with an IC40 that is about 4 years old. I chlorinate the pool on the low speed cycle 4 hours per day. About 10 days ago I noticed that the Salt Level indicators started to flash between red and green all the time. The salt level typically goes green after a few minutes. The flow indicator remains red all the time. The cell is clean. I recycled power and the indicators remain as stated above. According to the cell life reading I have approximately 40%. Chlorine level in the pool continues to decrease. Do you think the problem is with the flow switch or the entire IC40? Or maybe none of the above.

  37. Michael

    Reply

    I have an ic40, I have had it for 3 years, I recently noticed that the chlorine level was dropping in my pool. I cleaned my cell with acid but there wasn’t much buildup in it, all the lights on ic40 seemed fine. I checked my salt in my pool and it was showing around 2000 ppm I added salt and checked the salt level which is reading 3000 now. My ic40 now shows a high salt level. Does the ic40 still generate chlorine if the salt level is too high?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Micahel. The IntelliChlor should still maintain a chlorine residual. That being said hi chlorine may cause damage to pool related equipment and surrounding surfaces. If the the salt level is indeed hi, diluting the pool water is recommended. Test the water with a salt meter to get an accurate reading or have the water tested at a pool store lab.

  38. Victoria

    Reply

    I have read through all the previous questions but can’t find a situation similar to mine so I’m posting this question: I have a Pentair Intellichlor IC20 that was installed in April of 2017 so it’s 3 years old. I have never cleaned it. Last week the red “flow” light came on but all water was flowing correctly. I turned the breaker switch off and on and the red “flow” light turned to green but I’m still having issues with the sanitizer output mode. If I push “more” AND “less” to go into BOOST mode, the five lights will light up and continually “scroll” just fine but as soon as the boost mode automatically ends 24 hours later, NONE of the lights will light up showing a percentage of regular output. The lights obviously work because they light up for boost mode but as soon as boost mode is finished they are not green, they are not lit at all. It seems to indicate that, after the boost mode, my SWG is not producing any percentage level of chlorine. I push “more”–nothing lights up. I push “less”—nothing lights up. I push “more” and “less” at same time and the lights come on and it goes into boost mode again. Any ideas?

  39. John

    Reply

    I have a 1 year old IC40. We just turned it back on after the winter. Our pool man added salt to the pool and turned the unit over because he thought it was upside down. It ran for about 24 hours before we realized it was this way and reversed it to the correct flow. Now all of the led’s are blinking. Not just the boost level but every light on the unit is flashing. Any suggestions?

    Thanks

    • Nigel

      Reply

      You may want to power cycle the cell John if you are not in Boost mode. If that doesn’t work have a look at the flow switch paddle that it is intact.

  40. Matt

    Reply

    My IC 60 continues to flash hi salt level even though I have tested it repeatedly and it is dead center of the preferred range and the flow light indicates low or no flow when I know for sure it has adequate flow of between 70 and 100 gpm. It is driving me crazy, because once these indicators come on it produces zero chlorine.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      What is the date code on the sticker underneath the cell Matt?

  41. Walt

    Reply

    Just replaced my intellichlor ic40. Water was tested prior to new salt cell installation and within acceptable levels in all categories. Salt cell is being run in conjunction with an easy touch system. Intellichlor is enabled and set to 60% on easy touch panel. Percent output leds (the 2% and 4% lights) are blinking and the more button will only work after holding down the less button. After increasing output, lights are solid for a second at the last setting. Then they stop, and the 2% and 4% lights begin blinking again.
    Bad cell or am I doing something wrong?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      If your IntelliChlor is wired correctly to the EasyTouch all control at the cell is disabled and you can only control cell output from the EasyTouch automation Walt. I would suggest if all your wiring is correct the IntelliChlor is operating at 60% interval currently as per your spec. Is the pool maintaining a chlorine residual of 1-3 PPM? If not when was the last time you had your salt level in your pool water professionally tested and what was the salt level reading at that time?

  42. Andrea Amyot

    Reply

    Hi Nigel,
    Our Intellichlor IC20 is a year old. Two questions for you:
    1. Our sanitizer output lights are flashing. I have it set currently at 80% chlorination; at any level I set it to they still flash. I have done the super chlorination for 24hours in hopes that these lights would stop flashing. It doesn’t seem to be converting enough chlorine, my readings are 0. (Salt and flow are green). I don’t remember these lights flashing last year.
    2. Do we need to clean the cell, or does this system automatically do this?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Is the IntelliChlor connected to an automation system ie IntelliTouch, EasyTouch, IntelliCenter, SunTouch etc?

  43. David Hunt

    Reply

    Hi Nigel,
    I have the ic40 and not getting any reading on the salt content on the easy touch panel. It gives the reading of 0 ppm and I can taste the salt in the water while swimming. The salt content light is blinking green. How should I adjust the output of the ic40 sanitation and get a reading of salt content?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Do you have the IntelliChlor connected to the bottom port connection on the EasyTouch or is the comm cable from the IntelliChlor connected to it’s separate port connection on it’s separate power supply David?

  44. John Wilson

    Reply

    Hi , my intellichlor only flashes like it is on 24 hour boost .
    I have do everything to it and after cleaning the cells it still only flashes or no lights at all

    • Nigel

      Reply

      How old is it John?

  45. DAWN MCAFEE

    Reply

    hi, MY GREEN LIGHT IS FLASHING FOR HIGH SALT, JUST HAD THE CELL AND FILTER CLEANED LAST WEEK.I TESTED THE WATER AND SALT WAS 2700 AT A POOL STORE. THE CELL IS 4.5 YRS OLD. IT HAS NOT READ THE SALT ON MY PHONE APP FOR 6 MONTHS OR SO, USUALLY SAYS ZERO, YESTERDAY AND TODAY IT SAYS 5300 AND 4900, THIS HAPPENED 2 YEARS AGO AND HAD TO HAVE A SALT SENSOR REPLACED. HOW DO I KNOW IF THE SALT CELLIS GOING BAD OR IF IT IS THE FLOW SWITCH? THE POOL PEOPLE TOLD ME TO ADD SHOCK TO POOL, SINCE CHLORINE WAS LOW. i DID NOTICE YESTERDAY, IT DIDN’T SEEM LIKE I HAD ALOT OF SUCTION FOR WATER GOING DOWN AT THE SKIMMER.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hey Dawn it certainly could be the salinity sensor but the cell is quite old. At that age I would recommend replacing it. Check the hour meter on the cell to see how many hours you have on it. Let me know if you would like a link to purchase a new cell. We have both the ic20 and ic40 in stock currently.

  46. Denny

    Reply

    I have a Pentair Intellichlor that is brand new in my new pool. The salt level light is green and the flow light is green. Their are no lights on in the status area and the lights on my sanitizer output will go on for a few seconds and then turn off no matter what output I set it at. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Is your IntelliChlor hooked up to automation Denny?

  47. Tess Sacdalan

    Reply

    My pentair ic20 has red light on (cold water) but it’s 90 degrees temp. Is my cell dying? Please help, thanks

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Probably a bad cell Tess.

  48. James

    Reply

    Same issue as Denny. Hooked up to an IntelliCenter. Only way to get led lights on is to turn on supercholrinate

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Red light?

  49. James

    Reply

    Red light? I said LED light (sanitizer output)

    • Nigel

      Reply

      If you are operating the IntelliChlor from the IntelliCenter load box screen or the Pentair Home screen you should be able to adjust your % levels. This is some info from the IntelliCenter quick reference guide. You may want to re-visit the steps in case one has been missed on your equipment:

      Chemistry [IntelliChlor ® SCG and IntelliChem® Controller]: From the Chemistry screen you can configure one IntelliChlor SCGs and up to eight IntelliChem Controllers. Also see: Home
      screen(*): Tap Chemistry to access IntelliChlor and IntelliChem operation summary screens. Add IntelliChlor and/or IntelliChem: Tap Chemistry on the Home screen. Tap Add Chemistry.
      Select one IntelliChlor SCG and up to eight IntelliChem Controllers on the Select Chemistry Device. IntelliChlor SCG Settings: For dual body systems, each device is assigned to pool/
      spa. For single body systems, select either Body 1 (pool), Body 2 (Spa). Chlorination Output Levels: Set the Pool and Spa chlorine output levels. The system can only generate chlorine
      while the filter pump is operating. Set the percentage to produce chlorine. The Spa output 1/20 of the pool output when the Spa mode is switched on. Note: If using the Filter Pump Relay
      select Filter Pump Relay and Tap Next. Choose either the Pool or Spa Relay and can set the chlorination output levels and turn Super Chlorination On/Off. Tap the Back arrow to return to
      the previous screen and Tap Next. Super Chlorination (ON): Tap the Start Super Chlorination button to temporarily override the current chlorination output levels with super chlorination (100%
      output for the select time (typical 24 hours). IntelliChem Settings: Address (1-4): Select an address from 1-4 for the IntelliChem Controller. Body Assignment: For dual body systems,
      the device is assigned to pool/spa. For single body systems, select either Body 1 (pool), Body 2 (Spa).
      Chemistry (IntelliChlor® SCG and IntelliChem Controller)

  50. LeeAnn Mytz

    Reply

    I can’t get my Intellichlor IC40 back to a ‘regular’ mode. All lights are green but the green % lights are flashing in sequence. When I try to ‘reboot’ by pressing and holding the more and less buttons, nothing really changes. It seems to stop it, I think, because the green CELL light goes off, then all the lights flash together. Press again and the sequential flashing returns. Really can’t tell if any chlorine is being made. Best case scenario is that it is in ‘low output mode’, which has never happened. help…
    I can’t reset it so that it stays at a single % light, with no flashing.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Is the IntelliChlor hooked up to automation or is it stand alone LeeAnn?

Ask a Question or Comment