- HI, I just plugged in my Sundance spa and I’m getting the code FL1 flashing. Even before I hit any buttons. When I go to turn pump 1 on both speeds work. But the other pump wont kick on when you press the other pump button. However the pump 2 will kick on with the initial start up. (so I know it works)
I looked in the flow sensor and it’s not closing, I can see it wobbing but not making contact. I’ve tried purging the system of any air, but no changes. How can I tell if the circulation pump is working correctly? thanks..
79 thoughts on “FL1 CODE FLASHING ON SUNDANCE SPA”
Dustin It sounds like you may have an airlock if you just filled your Sundance Spa and the Flow switch is not closing. There are a number of ways to alleviate an airlock and check for proper circ pump operation. What model Sundance Spa do you own and what is the date built? You can find this info on the iD sticker on top of the sentry control box behind your center front skirt panel.
My wife filled it by just throwing the hose in it. I forgot to tell her to put the hose in the filter box. I’m not at home right now to check model… I can later, I think it’s a 2005 Bahia
Dustin, if you have a 2005 Bahia remove the filter and jam your garden hose in this port. Wrap a rag around the hose to get a tight fit and turn the hose on full. If after a minute or so the air lock does not get alleveiated you can loosen the flexible hose connected to your small Laing circ pump located behind the Sentry control box. Loosen this hose and pull it slightly away from the circ pump til you hear the air release. The hose is secured with a small gear clamp. Once the air lock is alleviated you should see water flow (bubbles) returning to your return heat jet (small grated fitting) in the footwell of your spa directly under your filter housing next to the larger suction grate. The FL1 msg should also go away and your heat light should turn on. If it does not you could have blockage in your circ pump line or circ pump housing. Check to clear blockage if you suspect this. If there is no blockage check for voltage with your multimeter at your circ pump points on the PWA in the Sentry control box. If you have no voltage at these points you may have a bad PWA. You should have 240vac +/- 10% If you have voltage here you may have a bad circ pump. Briefly run your hand across the top of the circ pump. If it feels very hot and you have voltage at the circ pump points on the PWA you likely have a bad and or plugged circ pump.
I’ve tried the garden hose at the filter with the rag & some bubbles came out. I will try the connections at the circ. pump. How can I tell if I have a blockage? The circ. pump does feel warm as well, so I assume its getting power. thanks a lot for the help!
Dustin disconnect the hose after the flow switch and connect
a length of hose to run over the top of the spa into the water.
If you have good flow out of this hose and the FL1 msg goes away
you have blockage in the circ line after the Flow switch. If you
don’t have flow or poor flow and the FL1 msg remains
you have a plugged and or bad circ pump.
will do!! good idea, I will give it a try tonight and report back to you. Why would the pump 2 not turn on when you push the button? Would this be all from the fl1 code?
if I turn the main power off.. and flip it back on the pump 2 will kick on by itself and cycle.
Dustin the pump 2 button locks up during FL1. When you cycle your power
off and on you are initiating your first filter cycle. Preceding your first
filter cycle Pump 2 operates for 5min to purge water in that side
of the plumbing.
OK.. thanks.. So i’ll try everything you suggested tonight. thanks a bunch!
ok, I checked the volts and purged all the system. I’m not getting anything out of the circulation pump. So I pulled the pump and it’s seized up. (so that must be the problem) Got a new one on the way and a flow sensor. Figured for 50 bucks might as well replace it as well since I have everything apart. Thanks for the help.
Good morning, well I got everything put back in. The light doesn’t flash fl1 and the hot tub is hot.
Next problem is the pump 2 wont turn on by pushing the button on top.
It will come on for the initial 5 min start up, so the pump is good. I swapped the wires on the circuit board and put pump 2 where pump 1 is. The pump turned on like it should.
So would this mean the top controller is bad? thanks again
Dustin, test for voltage with your multimeter at the Jet 2 pump points on the PWA after you press the Jet 2 pump button. You should have 240vac +/- 10% after pressing the button and no voltage after pressing the button a 2nd time. If you don’t have voltage after pressing the button you could have a dirty connection or a bad control panel and or a bad PWA. You can try to clean or scrape down the RJ connector tines on your control panel cable with the tip of a knife blade.
I was figuring you would say the pwa or control panel. I tried cleaning all the connection. Everything in the electrical box is very clean with no signs of moisture or corrosion. When I press the jet 2 button I don’t here any relays clicking or anything at all. I will check the volts tonight. I highly doubt anything is coming out of the pwa when I press the button. I guess just start by replacing top control panel and cross my fingers that it’s not the pwa. At least I’m heading in the right direction.. thanks again
ok just to update for any further people searching with the same problem… Replaced the top control panel and all is working .. .thanks again for the help!!
hello i have a 2011 sundance hawthorwn spa i have replaced the control panel up top and filters. button (1) the hot tub will work on two speed motor and heat button sometimes and sometimes not and will try to work can hear the pump motor try to work, but leave it set over night and it might be 102Deg and working fine on both speeds and heating then just quit again Button (2) works all the time as well as light i can not find a flow switch just a pressure switch which is mounted thru the circut board and into the heater.
Help please
Clay does the topside control show an error message when the pump and heater stop working. If so what is the message displayed?
yes fL1 fashing it ran for hours heating on low and high speed then just stopped and flash fl1
Clay power down the spa and disconnect the two wires going to the psi switch. Power up the spa again and test the switch with your ohm meter. Put one probe on each each leg of the psi switch. With the circ pump on you should have continuity. With the circ pump off you should have an open switch and no continuity. If this is not the case you could have a bad psi switch and or a plugged psi switch, circ pump or circ line. If you do have these readings you could still have a psi switch that is intermittent and could be bad.
sorry was outta town its been running fine now but random with both pumps on high it will stop pump one and flash fl1 but i push the pump one button and it works fine again
Clay power down the spa and disconnect the two wires going to the psi switch. Power up the spa again and test the switch with your ohm meter. Put one probe on each each leg of the psi switch. With the circ pump on you should have continuity. With the circ pump off you should have an open switch and no continuity. If this is not the case you could have a bad psi switch and or a plugged psi switch, circ pump or circ line. If you do have these readings you could still have a psi switch that is intermittent and could be bad.
Hi, Ive had that FL 1 code flashing on my Chelsea spa, my primary filter was fine, so I tried the recommend hose purge. After about 20 seconds I noticed some bubbles and small debris… now i can’t power up my spa…what to do? Joe
Joe, does the topside control panel show any lights or messages at all or is it blank? If it does show a message what is the message?
No nothing, after I did the hose procedure, I turned on the breaker and nothing…all out
Joe turn your breaker off. Remove your main buss fuse and do an ohms test on it with your multimeter. You should have continuity across the fuse. If you don’t you could have a bad fuse.
Hi,
I have a 2007 Sundance Certa and am getting the FL1 error code.
I have verified the filter is clean and there are no airlocks in the system. The spa was functioning properly until one day I realized the temp had dropped. That’s when I saw the FL1 error code.
The circ pump is not running and I have power to the two leads in the box.
How can I test to see if the pump itself is in fact bad and how do I know whether it is the circ pump or the flow switch? The Sundance book says it is a faulty flow switch but it seems like the circ pump would still function even if the flow switch was bad.
Thank for your help,
Bill
Bill put the pump on the bench and run 240vac to it. If it doesn’t run you could have a bad pump.
Alternatively if you don’t have a bench plug you could strip the pump wires back and wire direct to
the TB1 terminal block and then power up the spa. If the pump doesn’t run you could have a bad pump.
Good Day,
I have a 2004 Sundance Lagunas Spa that also has the Fl1 error code. I have had them in the past, and was able to reset it with the hose up to the intake trick on many occasions, but not this time. It still runs and circulates and is at 69 degrees in the Pacific Northwest, so it may be heating a little. I’ve tried a couple of other troubleshooting tips, but no success. any ideas what to do next? Thanks for the advice
Hi Konrad. Ruling out the obvious things like a dirty filter or low water flow you would want to look at the connections to the psi switch. Make sure the connections are clean and tight and have no breaks. If that checks out test the psi switch with your multimeter. With the pump running you should have continuity and with the pump off you should have an infinite reading. If you don’t have this you could have a bad psi switch.
Hi all,
I have a Palermo Sweetwater spa and I have the FL1 message. We changed the pressure switch and tested the fuse. I CANNOT locate the flow switch. I opened every side of the spa, no flow switch. Is it possible to have a spa with no flow switch? How to locate it even if I checked every side of the spa?!
Hi Roxanne. On the Sweetwater Palermo the psi switch is the flow switch.
Hi Nigel,
Thanks for the quick reply.
We just replaced it and we are still getting the FL1 error?
We also tried to put the hose in the filter’s intake to remove air locked. Still FL1 error..
Any ideas?
Thanks
Roxanne
Hi Roxanne. What is the serial number of your Sweetwater Palermo spa?
Hi
It’s
Serial Number: 2002150116
Product : 3-70-0307
Model: LX-15
Thanks
Roxanne
Hi Roxanne. There should be another id label somewhere if that one doesn’t have the serial number on it. The serial number will either be a 9 digit number starting with 1 or a six digit number starting with the letters PL. Sometimes the label is affixed to the top of the Sentry control box. Sometimes it is on the reverse of your front skirt panel. Sometimes it is to the left or right or under the Sentry Control box depending on the year built of the spa. The year built will also be on the serial number id sticker.
Hi
You’re right.. so it’ PL378139-0200
Thanks
Roxanne
Hi Roxanne. If your psi switch was new that you installed make sure your connections from the psi switch to the board are good and solid. No loose or dirty connections or breaks in wires. If that all checks out try removing your filter for 10min to see if there is an air lock due to a dirty filter. If that all checks out try to loosen the suction side union on the 2 speed pump while the pump is running on low speed. This is the pump with plumbing directly connected to the heater attached to the Sentry Control box. Air locks can produce the FL1 message and are quite common after a fresh fill.
So we did everything until ‘loosen the suction side (…)’ but our problem here is that the pump doesn’t start. When we hit pump #1, FL1 message appears and the pump doesn’t start.. any ideas?
Thanks
Roxanne
Hi Roxanne. If you haven’t had any recent service to the circuit board you would want to check with your multimeter if you have proper voltage at the jet 1 set points on the board when you press the jet 1 button. If you have proper voltage here then you could have a bad pump. If you don’t have proper voltage here you could have a bad circuit board.
We tested the pumps directly on 220V and it worked fine. We think the issue comes from thr circuit board.. I’m going to have to purchase a new one 🙁
Thanks a lot for your help!
Roxannr
My pleasure Roxanne. I’ve attached a link for the circuit board for your year of spa for your convenience. It is in stock and would ship Monday if purchased today: https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/sundance-parts/electronics/sundance-spas-pwa-motherboard-2-pump-logic-part-number-6600-720.html
Hi I have a sundance certa spa built in 2011. I just refilled the unit with brand new filters. I also just had to replace the ozone generator. When I power up the unit I have good flow from the water fall and all pumps. I can take the filter out and there is good suction from both sides. I can see that the flow switch is functioning as it should but I still have the error code FL 1. Would having only one check valve in the ozone line a cause for this.
Hi Colin. The check valve should have no affect. If you test the flow switch with your multimeter set for the ohms position you should have a reading of continuity with the switch closed (waterfall on) and an infinite reading with the switch open (waterfall off). If you don’t have these readings you could have a bad flow switch.
Hi Nigel,
I have a 2008 Sundance Hartford 680 spa.
I had an event that tripped the 240v breaker in my sub panel.
Reset the breaker and nothing. Took the access panel off and
changed the SC-30 slow blow fuse and everything seems to work but I get that
flashing FL1 error code and do not believe the circulation pump/heater is working.
When I turn the GFCI breaker off and on (located 5ft from the spa) I do hear a relay click
and then the FL1 code start flashing. I check the power leads to the circulation pump on the board
and have 115v on each lead. Do you think the circulation pump went bad?
Thanks,
Ray
Hi Ray
Sounds like you may have a bad circ pump. I’ve attached a purchase link for your convenience. They are in stock: https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/sundance-parts/pumps/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-laing-series-circulation-pump-part-number-6000-125e.html
How can you tell the Circ pump is not working? I have a FL 1 flashing on my screen. I have already replaced the filter and flow switch and I think I got any air out of the lines.
Hi Morgan. Test for proper voltage at the circ pump test points on the circuit board. If you have proper voltage you could have a plugged or bad circ pump. If you don’t have proper voltage you could have a bad board.
I have a 2009 Chelsea spa. I have a flashing FL1 code in the display. I’ve replaced the filters. I’ve also checked for an air lock condition and have replaced the flow switch, but the circulation pump and the heater are still not running. The other two pumps are working fine. I’m thinking my circulation pump is bad. What do you think? Is there a way to test this pump while it’s in the spa? (I don’t have a way to power the pump on a bench.)
Thanks.
Hi John. You can use your multimeter to test for proper voltage at the circulation pump test points. If you have proper voltage there +/- 10% than you may have a plugged circulation line, plugged circulation pump and or bad circulation pump. If you don’t have proper voltage there you may have a bad board.
Thanks, Nigel. I have 120 volts at each of the terminals where the circulation pump attaches to the circuit board. I also get water out of the waterfall, when I use a garden hose at the circulation intake port inside the filter basin. Does this leave a bad circulation pump as the cause of the problem?
Thanks again for your help and advise.
Hi John. I usually test across the terminals and look for 230VAC +/- 10%. If you have that then sounds like you have either a plugged line, pump and or bad pump. If you don’t hear any noise coming from the pump it’s probably a bad pump. I’ve attached a purchase link in case you want to get one from us. They are in stock and would ship today to your door: https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/sundance-parts/pumps/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-laing-series-circulation-pump-part-number-6000-125e.html
Hi Nigel,
Do I test for 230VAC by bridging the tester probe across the two hot terminals?
Thanks
Hi John. One probe on each terminal.
Thanks, Nigel. I just ordered the pump form your company. Do you have any tips to make installing it easier?
Hi John. Thanks for the order. They are a bit tight to get at behind the Sentry Control Box. Where gloves so you don’t scratch or scrape up your hands. First I would locate the screws that are holding the base down of the pump to the wood it sits on. They are like short drywall screws usually (Phillips heads). Once you get those out you can crimp the hose in front of the pump (suctions side) and the hose after the heater (return side) before the Flow switch. Use a rag around the hose and vise grips to crimp/lock (squeeze) the hoses closed. Then un-clamp the hoses at the suction and the hose that connects to the heater behind the Sentry control box. You’ll lose a bit of water between where you have the hose crimped between the heater and the pump and whatever is in the pump. If you have a couple of wine corks they fit good in the inside of the hoses if the vise grips are letting a little bit of water through. The pump should pull away from the hoses and you can place the new pump in the old pumps place. 780 Chelsee spas are notorious for air locks so once you have it all back together leave the hose to the front of the pump (suction side) un-clamped. Wait til you have full prime, water going through waterfall etc til you clamp that hose again. You may have to pull the hose off the pump briefly to aleveiate any air lock. Of course if your region climate or time allows you to drain the spa it’s easier to change it out with the spa drained.
I have a 2008 Chelsee that has a flashing fl1 error code. It had the — error. I shut off power for a few minutes then turned it back on and got the fl1. The pumps work fine. I changed the water a couple months ago. I had the issue before I changed it and someone recommended the temp sensor so I replaced it. I have previously replaced the flow sensor. Also when I filled and powered it up the radio doesn’t appear to have power to it where it did before water change..I don’t know if this has anything to do with it or not .Do you have any idea what the problem may be?
Hi Larry. The —- error code is what is called Watchdog. Except for a runaway heat situation it is usually caused by a bad temp sensor, hi-limit sensor and or circuit board. In rare instances a bad topside keypad and or transformer can cause it. If you leave another code long enough without attending to it ie FL1, FL2, SN1, SN2 it will eventually revert to Watchdog. The 2008 Chelsee had the smaller Laing circulation pump that directs flow through the Flow switch, heater and waterfall. If you have no water movement through the waterfall and the small Laing pump behind the Sentry Control Box is running you either have an airlock, blockage in the pump or circulation line or a bad circ pump. Check for proper voltage at the Circulation test points on the circuit board. With a heat call you should have 240VAC +/- 10%. If you do then you could have a plugged or bad circ pump or plugged line. If you don’t have this voltage you could have a bad board. I’ve attached a purchase link for a new circ pump in case you require one. They are in stock. If you need a link for a circuit board let me know: https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/sundance-parts/pumps/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-laing-series-circulation-pump-part-number-6000-125e.html
I have a Sundance Palermo Spa built in late 2005 showing a FL1 error code. Had this about 2 years ago and replaced the circulation pump. The circulation pump appears to be working with bubbles coming up to the surface of the spa. I just put in a completely new filter, and the spa has been running on the F1 cycle for about a week, but the FL1 error code persists. I’m suspecting that I might have to replace the flow switch. I would really appreciate any advice you have. Thank you.
Hi Howard. 99.9% of the time an FL1 message is caused by a dirty or greasy filter or low water level. Top your water up so it is touching the bottom of the pillows and remove your filter and run the spa briefly without the filter to see if the FL1 message goes away (approx 15min). Make sure nothing large can get sucked into the filter intake during this procedure. Observe the paddle in the flow switch T to see if it is making contact with the post during this process. If it is not making contact with the filter out or is making poor contact you could have something creating back pressure in the circulation line and or circ pump. If it makes contact with the post and the FL1 message goes away there is likely some grease deposit on the filter that needs to be removed. You could hookup an auxillary hose after the flow switch and drop it over the lip of the spa to bypass the circ line after the flow switch. This would tell you if there is back pressure after the flow switch creating the FL1 message or an issue before the flow switch after the circ pump ie a plugged circ pump and or bad circ pump, plugged heater, air lock if you are sure you have good flow coming from the circ pump outlet in the footwell of the spa. You could remove the sensor harness from the circuit board and test the Flow switch with your multimeter. With the paddle touching the post you should have continuity. With the paddle away from the post you should have an infinite reading. If you don’t have these readings you could have a bad Flow switch. I’ve attached a purchase link for a flow switch for your convenience. They are in stock and would ship today: https://support.aqua-tech.ca/store/index.php/sundance-parts/electronics/sundance-jacuzzi-spas-transparent-flow-switch-t-part-number-2560-040.html
Hi, I have a 2001 sundance sweetwater bahia hot tub. Getting a flashing FL1 at 73 degrees, not heating but is holding the temp in the 70s. Changed the high temp sensor and flow switch, still getting flashing FL1. All jets appear to be working.
Any suggestions
Thanks
Hi Joe. 99.9% of the time an FL1 message is caused by a dirty or greasy filter or low water level. Top your water up so it is touching the bottom of the pillows and remove your filter and run the spa briefly without the filter to see if the FL1 message goes away (approx 15min). Make sure nothing large can get sucked into the filter intake during this procedure. If the FL1 message goes away replace your filter. You could remove the wires from the pressure switch and test it with your multimeter during this process if removing the filter didn’t work. With the 2 speed pump running you should have continuity at the switch. With the 2 speed pump off or the power to the spa off you should have an infinite reading at the switch. If you don’t have these readings you could have a bad or intermittent switch, plugged switch and or plugged 2 speed pump. If you do have these readings you could have a bad connection at the flow switch. Some pressure switches are more sensitive than others. They typically come factory preset. Depending on which one you have installed it may not be compatible with the 2001 Bahia. Sundance Spas made a revision to their pressure switch for that model recently as they had found more of the old switches too sensitive and causing nuisance flashing FL1 messages. If you would like me to send you a purchase link to the revised pressure switch let me know.
Hi Nigel, the water level is good and I took filter out with no luck. Haven’t tried the others yet.
I forgot to tell you that before I replaced the flow switch, I was getting the FL1 code and then it would trip the breaker, after I replaced the flow switch I just got the code but did not trip breaker. Not sure if that means anything.
Thanks
Joe
Hi Joe. The flow switch itself would not produce a tripping breaker however if your 2 speed pump is overloading because of blockage that could cause the breaker to trip. If your heater is excessively scaled that could cause the breaker to trip. After you test the pressure switch with your multi meter (if it tests ok) you could remove the psi switch connector from the board and jump those two pins on the board with a spare jumper. If the FL1 message goes away with the jumper on then you could have a bad connection at the switch. If the FL1 message remains with the jumper on you could have a bad board.
I have a 2012 denali 680 and i am recieving a FL1 code. I have removed filter and used hose with rag to purge air. I have replaced filter, i have loosened the pump drain plug to purge air as well. Nothing has helped.
With the pump on low speed do you see water movement in the spa Amel?
Hi, I just bought a house that has a Sweetwater Spas Lagunas spa, and I am getting a FL1 error. I did the procedure to clear an airlock. I also just drained the tub, and replaced the flow switch today. Still getting the FL1 error. The filter doesn’t appear too dirty either. I filled it up per the owners manual also. The pump comes on both low and high speed, but it does not heat at all. New to spas and trying to get this figured out.
Morning James. Check for water movement from the small circulation pump jet in the footwell of the spa. This is the small silver dollar size grate in the footwell. Water movement from the 2 speed pump is irrelevant with respect to an FL1 error code as the small circulation pump circulates water through the heater and not the 2 speed pump.
Nigel, Will the water movement be pretty obvious, or will I need to get in the spa and feel for it with my hand?
You’ll have to feel it with your hand.
Nigel, I did not feel anything at all. Is there any way to troubleshoot the Circ pump?
James if you test with your multimeter for proper voltage at the circ pump test points on the board and don’t have proper voltage you could have a bad board. If you have proper voltage you have a bad connection from the circ pump to the board and or a plugged or bad circ pump. This is a link to a new pump from our e-store. The pump is in stock and ships quick:
https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/products/sundance-spas-jacuzzi-laing-series-circulation-pump-pn-6500-460
what is the proper voltage for the pump? I tested the voltage and was getting around 121VAC
120 Volt +/- 10% is correct
So It sounds like it’s going to be a new pump then? Is there anything else I could check to verify? Like should I take any of the lines off and check for a clog before I replace the pump or is it pretty certain that it’s the pump at this point.
With no water movement and good voltage and without being hands on the latter is a good bet James.
Hello,
Looking for some assistance diagnosing an FL1/FL2 issue. We have a Sweetwater Palermo/W 2003 model that came with the house we purchased in 2019. The previous owners kept fairly good record of the maintenance – new circuit board in 2009, and circulation pumps in 2010, and 2015. Given the frequency that the circulation pump has been replaced, it is suspect. First noticed the FL2 error code would trigger once the spa reached the set temperature 104, and no flow coming through the small port in the foot well. There has also been what sounds like a small motor winding up but then shutting off. We hadn’t used the spa in several weeks, and now the FL1 error code is showing. The water level was a little low, but after filling to the correct level, performing the air-lock garden hose technique, and running the pumps without the filter for around 15 minutes, the issue was not resolved. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated
Check for proper voltage at the circ pump test points. Proper voltage with no flow from the circ pump may indicate a plugged and or bad circ pump.
Hi, I have a 2021 Sundance Edison. When I went on vacation I turned the power off at the panel. When I returned five days later and flipped the circuit breakers the 2 pump worked but the 1 pump only clicked and then made a 3 second humming sound and went silent. I can repeat this result time and again. There’s no air coming out of the attachments to the pump.Any thoughts?
Pump may be locked up Ken and or you have a bad connection from the board to the pump. Pump and or board could also be bad.
Nigel, could there be debris clogging the pump? I get water out of both connections to the pump. The pump is getting a signal to turn on every 15-20 minutes. At that time, there’s a click behind circuit board and the pump hums as if trying to start and then stops. So, while the board sends a signal and the pump receives it, the pump itself never fires up.
Perhaps