199 SUNDANCE spa optima 850

Replaced old circuit board 6600-028 with new circuit board 6600-730 and now my top control panel shows error code poh. None of the controls work. I replaced my old circuit board because I heard a “click” when I depressed my “jets 2” pump

Replies

  1. Nigel

    Reply

    Hi Jason. I’ve never heard of error code poh. I have heard of OH. If you have the OH error code this is the overheat error code. Except for a runaway heat condition it would typically be caused by a bad temp sensor, bad hi limit sensor or bad circuit board. If on your old board when you pressed jet 2 and you only heard a click, if you still had proper voltage at the jet 2 set points on the board with your jet 2 icon showing on your topside keypad then your old board was probably still ok and you could have a bad connection between jet 2 and the board and or a bad pump. If you didn’t have proper voltage there then the old board could be bad. Let me know if you require a new temp sensor. We have them in stock.

  2. Jason Deters

    Reply

    Thanks Nigel, but I don’t think it’s a new temp sensor. I think it’s between the new circuit board and the top control panel. For some reason they don’t communicate. With my old circuit board becoming obsolete, could I need a new top panel control board? 1999 Sundance optima 850
    New control board 6600-730.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Jason. 6600-730 is the correct revised board to use for that model. You shouldn’t need a new topside keypad. If the buttons were working before with your old circuit board minus the jet 2 button that would indicate that on some level the kepyad is good. The new 6600-730 board comes with jumper pin instructions if you purchased it from a Sundance Spas dealer. With a 1999 spa you likely have the smaller remote keypad as well. You could unplug the smaller keypad to see if it is interferring with the main keypad. Is your topside keypad reading OH?

  3. Jason Deters

    Reply

    Thank you Nigel! Yes I have the jumper pins in locations jp9-1, and jp9-9. None in any of the others. Jp19 bank as well

    Yes I have a smaller remote keypad and it’s disconnected from the main. Always has been. The error code reads POh
    I was reading in a Sundance forum that sometimes when you upgrade circuit board from 028 to 730 that you need a new topside control panel. That Sundance was known for that?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Jason. You would want to have no jumper on pins for JP9-1.
      You would want to have a jumper on JP9-3.
      You would want to have no jumper on JP9-5.
      If you have a 60amp GFCI you would want a jumper on JP9-7.
      You would want a jumper on JP9-9.
      You would want to have no jumper on JP9-11.
      If you have a 60amp GFCI you would want to have no jumper on JP9-13.
      You would want to have no jumper on JP9-15.

  4. Curtis Hardy

    Reply

    Hi I have a Sundance Altamar/W. It started reading code poh and doing all kinds of crazy things but the temperature stayed at what I had it set at. I
    Have replaced the heating unit because it was leaking. The 6600-092 board with a 6600-730 board and replaced the control panel with a new one. It still reads code poh and I can’t make the control panel do anything. It still keeps the water the right temperature. It still cycles four times in 24 hrs like it supposed to but that’s it. What should I do? Please help me. I’m going nuts!

    • Nigel

      Reply

      What’s the serial number of your spa?

  5. Don Kisler

    Reply

    Hi Nigel
    I have a Sundance Altamar 850 manufactured 07/01/01 Serial # OAL3800-AL431935-0701. The circuit board is P/N 6600-730 Rev A. The last few months I get a FLO diagnostic and occasionally I get an OH. I have tested the FLO switch, which is only two years old, and it test open and closed on a continuity tests. I have also replaced the temperature sensor in case that was the issue. At first I was only able to get the tub up to heat by continually running the two speed pump as that was the only way to get the Flo switch closed in order to activate the heater. I was finally able to get up to temperature however I am now readying 103 degrees and the setting in at 102 degrees. I have removed the filter and ran to see if the FLO diagnostic would go away and it has not. I also have bled the system in case of airlocks again with no different results. I replaced the circulation pump as I could never hear it run and thought that may have been the reason for the messages but after replacing it the circulation pump and bleeding I never hear the pump activated by the system. To make sure the new pump was not defective I wired it direct to the 240 input lines and it runs fine. I have the circulation setting starting at 12AM with the duration of 24 hours. I have done about all of can think of and my only remaining question is could it be the circuit board? Do you have any suggestions for me? I sincerely appreciate the blog and your assistance. I thank you in advance.
    Don

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Do you have the neutral from your circ pump hooked up to the board or to the stake on TB1 Don?

  6. Donald Kisler

    Reply

    Nigel
    I cannot see my last comment made so I want to clarify that my neutral (white wire from the circulation pump is hooked to the lug on the main red wire coming into the hot tub. It is not hooked to TB1 on the board where the other three pumps are connected. Also my tempature is holding as set contrary to my initial comment.
    Don

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Could be a board Don.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      I would hook the neutral from the circ pump to the stake near the black of the lug on the main.

  7. Donald Kisler

    Reply

    Nigel
    After letting the system rest for about 15 minutes and the circulation pump hooked back to the original lug on the red wire the panel is now reading correctly and all systems seem to be working properly. I tested the circulation pump again to insure nothing happened in the wire swap. With the circulation pump white wire hooked to the lug on the red main wire into the system and moving the circulation pump black wired from T2 to the main black wire in the circulation pump does work so all appears as it was before the test. Does this mean you think my control board is bad since the circulation pump does not seem to activate in the normal configuration? Everything else in the hot tub seems to function normally with no FLO messages as long as the main two speed pump is running. It is only some period of time, after the 20 minute run of the pump, that the FLO message appears. I thank you for taking the time to go over this with me.
    Don

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Another question for you Don…when the FLO msg pops up is it a solid FLO msg and nothing else or does it flash/alternate between FLO and the spa temperature, FLO and the spa temperature?

  8. Donald Kisler

    Reply

    Nigel
    At this time it flashes between FLO and spa temperature FLO and the spa temperature.
    Don

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Thinking you have the spa already it Standard mode? If so check with your multimeter if you have 240 VAC present across the circulation pump test points 1 and 9 at TB2. If you don’t have 240VAC there, bad board. If you do have 240VAC there you could have a bad connection from the board to the pump.

  9. Donald Kisler

    Reply

    Nigel
    Yes I am in the standard mode. My TB2 has only two points a W and a B. My black wire goes to the B point. I do measure 244 volts at the W and B points of TB2. The connect to the pump to TB2 is solid as I even put a little solder on the wires to make it easier to poke the black wire into the B point. I double triple check the connection but is seems more solid than all of the rest of the connections.
    Don

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Not sure Don. If you have 240 there and your sure the pump is ok you could try hooking up the wires from the pump to W and B. Only so much I can troubleshoot online. May need a Tech to set eyes on it onsite if flipping the wires from the pump to W and B makes no difference.
      There was an old Smart Heater Logic board inside the heaters on models built before June 12, 2000 that would cause a nuissance flashing FLO code and there is a field repair for that but checking your serial number your spa was built 7/9/2001 and installed 09/13/01 so I’m ruling that out.

  10. Donald Kisler

    Reply

    Thanks Nigel. I will try your last solution as well. My local tech has failed me and won’t show up any longer, which led me to troubleshoot online and ultimately to you. I can run the pump by hooking both wires to the main input. what would be the risk if I ran the circulation pump directly from the input power. I have the white wire hooked to the lug on the main input and I could hook the black wire currently at TB2 to the main black input. My hot tub is heating and the filter cycles run now what are your thoughts on that. Anyway I sincerely appreciate your assistance in troubleshooting this issue. I have also thought about sending the board off for repair so they can tell me if something is wrong or not. Your thoughts? Thanks again.
    Don

    • Nigel

      Reply

      If you leave the circ pump hooked up to the main, the board will no longer have control of that pump. If hooking the circ pump wires up to W and B at TB2 does not work a possible workaround is to set the spa for Economy mode and set each of your filter cycles for 6 hrs and run them back to back. The spa would then heat thermostatically to whatever temperature you have the topside set for. You will burn more electricity this way though running that 2 speed therapy jet pump 24/7 but the flashing FLO message will/should go away. Still none of this explains away why the circ pump won’t run that is unless it does run hooked up to W and B at TB2.

  11. Don Kisler

    Reply

    Nigel
    I hooked the circulation pump to W and B of TB2 as you suggested and the pump is now running. I have no idea why the pump needs to be hooked up different from the way it was however you have solved my problem. Your service is amazing and you were patient and persistent in addressing my problem. Thank you very much for being the experts in the country!!!!! If your company was in my town I would be buying my next tub from you. Anyone who lives in your town and doesn’t is crazy!!
    Don

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Glad it worked out for you Don. I remember from the very early models the circ pump was always hooked up direct to the board like that. For some reason later on they started taking one leg of the circ pump and hooking it up to the lug on TB 1 (Main). I don’t really remember 100% why they did that. But I do remember sitting at one of their schools in California several years ago asking their head of Tech training if you could hook it up either way and he said yes. Sundance Spas has always been a fairly forward thinking spa manufacturer so it simply could have been them thinking down the road how hooking it up that way will make some future logic in their boards work well or perhaps leaving the 2nd test point at TB2 available for something else. As you can imagine lots has changed with spas in the last 15 years or so. The circuit boards are really different now. Circ pump is also larger now and more robust. If you ever can’t find a part or chemical for your spa feel free to shop our e-commerce site: https://shop.aqua-tech.ca/?aqt-menu The last 15 months has been challenging at times to keep things in stock but things are getting closer to normal again. Enjoy your evening and the rest of your summer.

  12. Jason deters

    Reply

    Hi Nigel,

    I’m having the same issue as don. What did he end up doing? My Circ pump wires are connected to TB2

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Are both your white and black wires from the circ pump hooked up to TB2 or is the white hooked up to the stake at TB1 main power Jason?

  13. Jason deters

    Reply

    Both are hooked up to TB2. Where would I connect the white on TB1? Next to the Red , White , or Black that’s already there?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Hi Jason what you are trying to do is supply 230v to the circ pump. Before you switch any wires can you use your multimeter ie put a probe on the black of TB2 and a probe on the white of TB2 at the same time and let me know what voltage you have there?

  14. Jason deters

    Reply

    Hi Nigel,
    I have 249 volts

    • Nigel

      Reply

      That should be enough to run the circ pump. You said you had the same problem as Don. Maybe you should explain to me in more detail what issues you are having as it sounds different then Don’s issues.

  15. Jason deters

    Reply

    Sorry!
    Occasional FLO error and heater only activates on high speed. I’ve been keeping up to temp by running high speed an hour before I get in .
    My circuit board is 5 years old, it may be going bad.

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Do you have a waterfall on your spa?

  16. Jason deters

    Reply

    I do not, it’s a 1999 optima 850

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Are you getting a solid FLO msg or is it flashing FLO and then temperature FLO and then temperature?

  17. Jason deters

    Reply

    Flashing Flo then temperature

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Put your hand in front of the small Ozone circulation jet with the jet pumps off and let me know if you have water movement there.

  18. Jason deters

    Reply

    The ozone jet has been removed and disconnected

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Then what outlet does your water flow go to after the flow switch?

  19. Francois

    Reply

    Hi Nigel,

    I Have a strange problem on my Sundance Optima 850 2004. I did try to diagnose the problem by measuring voltage, amperage and OHMS but now I`m stucked. The problem is at some point, the spa turn in OH mode and the temperature on the LCD display is above 109 degree. I even saw 117 degree but those are false reading. When it is in OH mode, I measured the OHMS on K1=no link (opened), K2=no link (opened), but K3=9.2 MOhms. The K3 is the relay to control the red heater wire and the other 2 relay (K1 and K2) are in series for black wire. When I test the voltage at heater connector block input, I have 244V (ok). When I check the voltage on the red wire output (after the relay), I have only 100V ? I should also say that the circulation pump is running during OH mode.

    Other than that, since the spa is in OH mode, I think all of the 3 relay should be open to don`t provide volatage to the heater..

    I also test the DC voltage input on the board and yellow wires have 3.7V and the blue wires have 3.2V

    Now, the best part is, when I shut down the 60 amp breaker for that spa, wait for a couple of minutes and restart it, everything is working great. The temp was showing me 94 degree, the circ pump is running and I can control all other pumps or light.

    If you could help me with that, I would really appreciate.
    Thanks a lot

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Is the heat icon showing on the control panel when the control panel displays OH Francois?

  20. Francois Bibeau

    Reply

    Hi Nigel, thank you to take time to respond.

    No the heat icon is not showing, which I think it is logical with the OH mode.

    Thanks

    • Nigel

      Reply

      It sounds like you may have a bad temp sensor. Did you want to purchase a new one Francois?

  21. Francois

    Reply

    But if it is bad, is it normal that everytime I stop/start the spa, everything is going fine? And I wonder why the K3 relay doesn`t react at it should? It should be either open or close but in OH mode, it is like a mid-open? (9.8 megOhm of resistance reducing the voltage to 100V at reading). This part I just don`t understand…. Do you?

    Thanks a lot for your time.

    BTW, how much would be a new temperature sensor like you spoke?

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Typically the sensor will cause that code. You could perhaps confirm that by removing the sensor wires from the sensor harness and performing and ohms test on the sensor. If it is far out of range the ohm meter will confirm that if the meter can measure a wide range.

  22. Francois

    Reply

    Hi Nigel.

    I juste test the résistance of the 2 temperature sensor. The one coming from filter box have 18.21 kohm and the one coming from the heater have 18.30 kohm. I restarted the spa and the temp show me 101 degree which is currently normal. The problem is after couple of hours, the board bad trip and display me false reading that is too high + the fact that the relay k3 is not working properly in the same time. Could my problem be related to a bad relay?

    Thanks again for your help and time

    • Nigel

      Reply

      Resistance should be approx 18.21 at 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit. Probably is a bad temp sensor but could be a bad board. Did you want to buy one or both?

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